Lancia Beta Forum
December 06, 2021, 07:09:15 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: NEC Classic Car Show 12th-14th November 2021
http://www.betaboyz.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=4420.0
 
   Home   Help Contact Admin Search Calendar Gallery Articles Login Register  
Pages: [1]
  Print  
Author Topic: Rear Brake Caliper  (Read 125 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Neil-yaj396
Legendary Member
******
Offline Offline

Posts: 1694


1979 1300 Coupe


« on: November 19, 2021, 02:58:22 PM »

I was hoping to free off my sticky offside handbrake as it usually frees off with a drive. However, during the car's lay up to refurb the carb etc. it looks like the caliper has seized up proper.

While the ball retaining the handbrake cable isn't seized to the lever as such the lever is pretty much seized in the 'on' position, so I'm not getting much/any play in the lever to free the ball so I can remove the caliper.

Any tips as to how to free up the lever or remove the cable in this situation?
Logged
Ammy
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 173


« Reply #1 on: November 19, 2021, 08:16:55 PM »

Can you not slacken the brake cable off  ?
Logged
SanRemo78
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 108


« Reply #2 on: November 19, 2021, 09:12:05 PM »

If the handbrake mechanism is seized on then there shouldn't be much tension on the cable? the nipple should slip out easily enough? But if you struggle then try applying the handbrake fully, put a clamp on the opposite side to stop it releasing and take the handbrake off. That ought to release the cable enough to get it out.
Then it's a rebuild kit if you can still get them?
Logged

Hawk HF3000 - Square Arch Stratos Replica - owned since 1988.
Hawk HF 3000 - Round Arch Stratos Replica - Under construction.
Alfa Romeo 159 T1 2.4 Q4 Sportwagon - Believed one of 4 in UK.
peteracs
Administrator
Legendary Member
******
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 2812



« Reply #3 on: November 19, 2021, 09:47:39 PM »

Hi

Rebuild kits are available as are the pistons.

I never leave a handbrake on when parking up for a period, much better to have it seized openů.

Peter
Logged

Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Saab 9-3 1.9Tid Cabrio
mangocrazy
Legendary Member
******
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 1076


« Reply #4 on: November 19, 2021, 10:34:17 PM »

Hi

Rebuild kits are available as are the pistons.

I never leave a handbrake on when parking up for a period, much better to have it seized openů.

Peter

Completely agree. It also lessens the chance of the pads bonding themselves to the discs.

Graham
Logged

1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2017 KTM Duke 690R
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
1980 Yamaha RD350LC
Neil-yaj396
Legendary Member
******
Offline Offline

Posts: 1694


1979 1300 Coupe


« Reply #5 on: November 20, 2021, 09:58:27 AM »

If the handbrake mechanism is seized on then there shouldn't be much tension on the cable? the nipple should slip out easily enough? But if you struggle then try applying the handbrake fully, put a clamp on the opposite side to stop it releasing and take the handbrake off. That ought to release the cable enough to get it out.
Then it's a rebuild kit if you can still get them?

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Guy, the opposite is the case. Because the lever is seized in the on position the nipple is held firm into the socket. Possibly the cable is seized in its sleeve also. I'm going to attack it again later this week with the caliper fully removed. Don't follow your clamp theory (what sort of clamp?)?

I'm won't be refurbing the caliper myself, so any recommendations for firms doing this would be welcome, other than Big Redd, who unlike everyone else, I've now had two bad experiences with.
Logged
SanRemo78
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 108


« Reply #6 on: November 20, 2021, 11:23:26 AM »

Hi Neil - I'll try again. Jack the car up, axle stands and remove both rear wheels. Fully apply the handbrake and use something like a G clamp to hold the un-seized lever in the on position. Something like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284524267346?epid=1630369348&hash=item423ef7c752:g:FIEAAOSwZBhhjEF-

When you release the handbrake the clamp keeps the lever locked and allows a little extra cable movement that you can transfer over to the seized side to get the cable off at that end.

At the end of the day slackening the cable at the adjuster is probably easier and, if you're going to overhaul one calliper it's probably worth doing the other one at the same time and replacing the handbrake cable won't do any harm either.

My method arises from experience with Beta mechanisms on a Stratos replica where access to the adjuster was problematic....

Guy

Logged

Hawk HF3000 - Square Arch Stratos Replica - owned since 1988.
Hawk HF 3000 - Round Arch Stratos Replica - Under construction.
Alfa Romeo 159 T1 2.4 Q4 Sportwagon - Believed one of 4 in UK.
Neil-yaj396
Legendary Member
******
Offline Offline

Posts: 1694


1979 1300 Coupe


« Reply #7 on: November 20, 2021, 06:54:34 PM »

Hi

Rebuild kits are available as are the pistons.

I never leave a handbrake on when parking up for a period, much better to have it seized openů.

Peter

A lesson learned for sure. My previous garages were flat so I used to leave the handbrake off. This one has a slight slope, I should have simply left the car in gear of course.
Logged
Neil-yaj396
Legendary Member
******
Offline Offline

Posts: 1694


1979 1300 Coupe


« Reply #8 on: November 20, 2021, 06:56:20 PM »

Hi Neil - I'll try again. Jack the car up, axle stands and remove both rear wheels. Fully apply the handbrake and use something like a G clamp to hold the un-seized lever in the on position. Something like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284524267346?epid=1630369348&hash=item423ef7c752:g:FIEAAOSwZBhhjEF-

When you release the handbrake the clamp keeps the lever locked and allows a little extra cable movement that you can transfer over to the seized side to get the cable off at that end.

At the end of the day slackening the cable at the adjuster is probably easier and, if you're going to overhaul one calliper it's probably worth doing the other one at the same time and replacing the handbrake cable won't do any harm either.

My method arises from experience with Beta mechanisms on a Stratos replica where access to the adjuster was problematic....

Guy



Thanks Guy, that makes sense now. The limited space I have will make it difficult to get to the cable adjuster....
Logged
peteracs
Administrator
Legendary Member
******
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 2812



« Reply #9 on: November 20, 2021, 06:58:12 PM »

Hi Neil

A block of wood under one wheel?

If you planning to replace the cable, simply cut it?

I seem to remember the balls do tend to stick in the arm after a while especially with crud with driving.

Peter
Logged

Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Saab 9-3 1.9Tid Cabrio
Pages: [1]
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
SMFAds for Free Forums
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!