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Author Topic: Hoses mod at Cylinder #4  (Read 1217 times)
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Nigel
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« on: September 04, 2021, 06:06:17 PM »

Following on from chats at Betameeta21, I want to get
some hot coolant flowing at Cyl #4 with the heater tap off.

Access to the heater pipe from the water pump is difficult [but not impossible]
however I have an alternative idea to run past you.
As per the pic, would a connection between the pipe from #4 and the
lower bypass pipe before the thermostat be sufficient?

Nigel


* 20210904_174743_resized.jpg (244.81 KB, 490x1008 - viewed 187 times.)
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1984 2.0 Carb HPE [ex Aus] Grigio Finanza.
2007 Mazda 6 2.3 [current daily, highly recommended]
The past:
1980 2.0 HPE White in South Africa [hope it survives!]
1976 1.6 Coupe Lancia Blu [PFG 76R] [probably deceased]
oh,and an Uno Turbo 1997 also in SA [stolen,never recovered]
peteracs
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« Reply #1 on: September 04, 2021, 09:08:35 PM »

Hi Nigel

It would work for cyl 4, but where would you take the heater from?

I did forget you asked me this last weekend (or someone did) and I will photo what I did for my setup. This is a pre facelift so not sure if the heater in the facelift has similar entry/exit points on the bulkhead.

Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
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peteracs
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« Reply #2 on: September 04, 2021, 10:28:09 PM »

Hi Nigel

Sorry, a bit slow to engage brain, I assume you mean to T off the existing exit from cyl 4, one way to the heater, the other to the return pipe. It should work fine.

Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
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Nigel
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« Reply #3 on: September 05, 2021, 08:29:39 AM »

Hi Peter,
Having re-read, I didn't describe in enough detail.

Without actually saying it, my question was one of coolant flow direction as well.

As far as I can tell, my plan should not conflict flow.

Thanks, N.
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1984 2.0 Carb HPE [ex Aus] Grigio Finanza.
2007 Mazda 6 2.3 [current daily, highly recommended]
The past:
1980 2.0 HPE White in South Africa [hope it survives!]
1976 1.6 Coupe Lancia Blu [PFG 76R] [probably deceased]
oh,and an Uno Turbo 1997 also in SA [stolen,never recovered]
peteracs
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« Reply #4 on: September 05, 2021, 10:55:52 AM »

Hi Nigel

The hose from cyl 4 goes to the heater and then connects to the lower water pipe near the water pump, so connecting in anywhere along the lower pipe should be fine. The following photos show the mod I did to the hose from cyl 4 in the first photo and the return from the heater in the second. They are joined via a short bypass piece of hose using T pieces. I just noticed I will need to keep an eye on the joining hose as runs close to the exhaust, so may need some protection.

Peter


* 50A37F1A-8E52-42DC-83E8-7F00704516D8.jpeg (104.25 KB, 640x480 - viewed 163 times.)

* 306A374B-B2E4-4066-94CE-FCC169D62A02.jpeg (94.92 KB, 640x480 - viewed 165 times.)
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
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rossocorsa
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« Reply #5 on: September 05, 2021, 01:12:10 PM »

The Lancia solution is an extra connection on the top coolant pipe that connects to the exit in the head at cylinder 3/4 then out to heater near the corner (excuse untidy engine bay work in (slow) progress.


* IMG_20210905_132937__01__01.jpg (411.03 KB, 1174x1017 - viewed 166 times.)
« Last Edit: September 05, 2021, 01:33:34 PM by rossocorsa » Logged
Nigel
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« Reply #6 on: September 05, 2021, 03:43:05 PM »

Thanks Alan and Peter.

Early last year, I made up an angled piece of plumbing copper [28mm] as a simple
connector to the thermostat. It was easy to solder a T into that.
I made up another 15mm T at the heater pipe joint [which was already there,
conveniently], and linked them together.

I ran the engine from cold, and the warm-up time is much reduced. I'm getting heat to #4 almost
instantly, whereas before that pipe had zero flow.
As it happens, the new rad switch [88/83] arrived, and fitted, now the fan is kicking in much earlier.

I appreciate that this mod won't work for most, but it's just one more way to do it.
 
 


* 20210905_100230_resized.jpg (201.86 KB, 1008x490 - viewed 168 times.)

* 20210905_100247_resized.jpg (226.19 KB, 1008x490 - viewed 168 times.)

* 20210905_101642_resized.jpg (264.19 KB, 1008x490 - viewed 159 times.)
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1984 2.0 Carb HPE [ex Aus] Grigio Finanza.
2007 Mazda 6 2.3 [current daily, highly recommended]
The past:
1980 2.0 HPE White in South Africa [hope it survives!]
1976 1.6 Coupe Lancia Blu [PFG 76R] [probably deceased]
oh,and an Uno Turbo 1997 also in SA [stolen,never recovered]
peteracs
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« Reply #7 on: September 05, 2021, 04:19:54 PM »

Hi Nigel

Difficult for me to look into an engine bay and see central heating parts, but can only commend the neatness of the solution!

I assume the zero flow was due to heater valve being switched off?

Peter
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Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
Nigel
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« Reply #8 on: September 05, 2021, 04:49:10 PM »

Hi Peter,
Yes, heater valve off.
I recall some guys saying they kept the heater on to create flow,
but I didn't want to do that all the time.

And yes, offensive to some!

Nigel
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1984 2.0 Carb HPE [ex Aus] Grigio Finanza.
2007 Mazda 6 2.3 [current daily, highly recommended]
The past:
1980 2.0 HPE White in South Africa [hope it survives!]
1976 1.6 Coupe Lancia Blu [PFG 76R] [probably deceased]
oh,and an Uno Turbo 1997 also in SA [stolen,never recovered]
peteracs
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United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 3035



« Reply #9 on: September 05, 2021, 11:22:36 PM »

Hi Nigel

You could paint the copper fittings black!

Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
Nigel
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« Reply #10 on: September 06, 2021, 04:53:29 PM »

Hi Nigel

You could paint the copper fittings black!

Peter

Brasso came to mind  Grin Grin Grin
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1984 2.0 Carb HPE [ex Aus] Grigio Finanza.
2007 Mazda 6 2.3 [current daily, highly recommended]
The past:
1980 2.0 HPE White in South Africa [hope it survives!]
1976 1.6 Coupe Lancia Blu [PFG 76R] [probably deceased]
oh,and an Uno Turbo 1997 also in SA [stolen,never recovered]
JohnFol
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« Reply #11 on: January 18, 2022, 05:07:36 PM »

Trying to follow the advice and still a little confused.

If I put Rossocorsa's Lancia mod image next to what I have I think the official fix is to:
  • Take No4. Cylinder pipe and connect to new 'hole' in top rail (red arrow)
  • Take heater matrix exit pipe and connect to 2nd new 'hole' in top rail (green arrow)

I can't tell where the matrix exit pipe connects as the image on the left shows the lug (green question mark) but no pipe connected. Looking at the other images it seems to be a choice of routing it towards thermostat, or back towards water pump.

Probably going to tackle this whilst off the road for winter so any idiot proof guidance most appreciated


* Top Pipe Mod.jpg (230.81 KB, 1416x516 - viewed 96 times.)
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mangocrazy
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« Reply #12 on: January 18, 2022, 05:24:21 PM »

Hi John,

My mod hasn't been tested in anger yet as the engine is yet to be run up, but it's basically the same as many others have tried. My thread detailing what I did to the top water rail is here:

https://www.betaboyz.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=4179.0

And here's a photo of the modified top rail in situ. The hose to the heater isn't connected as the engine is not in the car.

Graham


* DSC_5682.JPG (287.23 KB, 889x723 - viewed 104 times.)
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1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2017 KTM Duke 690R
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
1980 Yamaha RD350LC
mangocrazy
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« Reply #13 on: January 18, 2022, 06:04:45 PM »

This is another thermostat/water rail thread that is worth reading.

https://www.betaboyz.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=4074.20
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1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2017 KTM Duke 690R
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
1980 Yamaha RD350LC
JohnFol
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« Reply #14 on: January 18, 2022, 07:51:31 PM »

Many thanks both for the extra image and links. I may be brave and get the welder out!
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