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Author Topic: Fuel tank and hardlines  (Read 1154 times)
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donaldb7
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« on: July 23, 2021, 11:46:13 AM »

Hello folks,

I’ve got a ‘78 beta coupe and upon the removing the fuel tank, I’ve been greeted by a few issues. First off, the tank it’s self seems like it’s not in the worst state, and I think it’s repairable. There are two things that worry me though, first are two small pinholes in the top half of the tank - I’ve read that these can be sorted by using a tank sealer kit, such as POR-15. Would this be the best route to take?
I’m also quite worried about the ‘seam’ of the fuel tank. It has been affected quite badly with rust and has feathered away so that in some spots, it is about half the width it should be (I’ll attach photos to show). Any advice on whether or not this is repairable? Does it need to be repaired or would some rust converter and then protection do the trick?

Also, I’ve got some corrosion in my fuel lines, but only for the last 30cm or so of line. All of the rest of the hardline is in good shape - is it possible to slice out the bad stuff and put in an attachment to new line (nickel copper?) or is it best to replace the whole lot?

Many thanks in advance

Donald


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WestonE
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« Reply #1 on: July 23, 2021, 04:33:54 PM »

Hi Donald

I will answer the easy one first. It would be best to just replace rusty fuel lines with copper nickel end to end. It is an annoying job but not technically very challenging. On the Tank if it was my choice I would get a new alloy tank made by the people that made Nigel' s. Remember fuel tanks are pressurized at some times and you can expect both internal and external corrosion. Sand blasting and JB Weld stick can fix a certain amount but that corrosion looks extensive. You could try the tap test at every area of corrosion to get a view on strength. You might have areas cave in telling you all you need to know about the risks you are running.

At least it is a carb tank making it easier to use POR 15 tank cleaner and liner without blocking vent pipes and swirl pots.

Do not even think about welding the tank. Even after filing it with water and marine clean it can still be risky.

Eric   
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SanRemo78
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« Reply #2 on: July 24, 2021, 10:42:53 PM »

If you're contemplating welding a fuel tank I'd recommend attaching the inlet pipe to an exhaust and running the engine for 20 minutes, that'll vent all the fuel vapours out of it.

Guy
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Hawk HF3000 - Square Arch Stratos Replica - owned since 1988.
Alfa Romeo 159 T1 2.4 Q4 Sportwagon - Believed one of 4 in UK.
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A Lancia Beta Coupe 1981 2 Litre
donaldb7
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« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2021, 08:13:34 PM »

Thanks for the advice! In terms of the fuel lines, is it possible to pull the entire hardline out of the car in one piece, either whilst on the ground or on jacks... or will I need a lift or something to get it out?

Ta

D
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Nigel
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« Reply #4 on: August 04, 2021, 10:12:31 PM »

Hi Donald

I'd put the car up on stands as high as you can.

The fuel line is clipped with, I think, bendable clips. It'll be
a bit tricky at the front, but doable.

Good luck!
Nigel
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1984 2.0 Carb HPE [ex Aus] Grigio Finanza.
2007 Mazda 6 2.3 [current daily, highly recommended]
The past:
1980 2.0 HPE White in South Africa [hope it survives!]
1976 1.6 Coupe Lancia Blu [PFG 76R] [probably deceased]
oh,and an Uno Turbo 1997 also in SA [stolen,never recovered]
donaldb7
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Scotland Scotland

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« Reply #5 on: August 04, 2021, 10:16:52 PM »

Hi Donald

I'd put the car up on stands as high as you can.

The fuel line is clipped with, I think, bendable clips. It'll be
a bit tricky at the front, but doable.

Good luck!
Nigel

Thanks Nigel!
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