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News: Beta Meeta 50th Anniversary 2022
https://www.betaboyz.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=4385.0
 
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Author Topic: New member: '78 Beta Coupe  (Read 1598 times)
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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #20 on: February 22, 2021, 12:38:06 PM »

Mine went in the top of the front inner wings, the section the outer wing bolts into along the side of the bonnet. Also I've had trouble where the rear seat belt mountings bolt through into the rear arch.
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GerardJPC
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« Reply #21 on: March 06, 2021, 08:02:11 AM »

A note on petrol:  Esso Supreme 99 + is ethanol free in many areas of the UK, but check the Esso website to see which areas.
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1979 Beta 1600 Coupe

1962 Lancia Appia Series 3 Berlina, 1973 Fiat 124 Sport Coupe 1800, 1974 Lancia 2000 HF Coupe, 1981 Lotus Eclat Series 2 (project), 1982 Moto Guzzi V50 Monza, 1982 Moto Morini 350 Sport, 1983 Land Rover Series 3 88, 2009 Jaguar XK 5.0
peteracs
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« Reply #22 on: March 06, 2021, 10:10:00 AM »

This is the current website notes on 99 which identifies the areas.

“Although our pumps have E5 labels on them, our Synergy Supreme+ 99 is actually ethanol free (except, due to technical supply reasons, in Devon, Cornwall, the Teesside area, Scotland and NW England). Legislation requires us to place these E5 labels on pumps that dispense unleaded petrol with ‘up to 5% ethanol’, including those that contain no ethanol, which is why we display them on our Synergy Supreme+ 99 pumps.”

Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
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donaldb7
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« Reply #23 on: March 06, 2021, 05:31:22 PM »

Some progress!

New tensioner bearing arrived from Mark the other day so now I’ve changed the timing belt as well as tensioner bearing! Looking nice and clean now as opposed to the rusty mess that it was before. And changed the oil and filter, plugs and fuel filter. Turned it over without the sparks connected to establish oil pressure but no luck! The gauge seems to be working as a little blow through the oil pressure line shows pressure. The gauge is showing some signs of life when the engine is turned over but no where near what I’d consider necessary. Also on that note, not getting any fuel into the fuel filter despite a full tank! Any idea why? Will post some photos soon!

Cheers guys

Donald

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Nigel
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« Reply #24 on: March 06, 2021, 06:12:22 PM »

Some progress!

New tensioner bearing arrived from Mark the other day so now I’ve changed the timing belt as well as tensioner bearing! Looking nice and clean now as opposed to the rusty mess that it was before. And changed the oil and filter, plugs and fuel filter. Turned it over without the sparks connected to establish oil pressure but no luck! The gauge seems to be working as a little blow through the oil pressure line shows pressure. The gauge is showing some signs of life when the engine is turned over but no where near what I’d consider necessary. Also on that note, not getting any fuel into the fuel filter despite a full tank! Any idea why? Will post some photos soon!

Cheers guys

Donald



The line you blew through is not oil pressure but is oil level. It connects to the top
of the dipstick. Oil level gauge is top right.

The oil pressure gauge is top centre and is electrical. It's worth getting a new sender,
it may be blocked.

Try sucking the fuel line to see if its flowing ok. Old fuel lines can collapse internally, it's worth
changing all the rubber sections.

Regards
Nigel

edit to add: just remembered yours is an early car so gauge positions may vary.
Also, how old is your fuel, did you drain and clean the tank yet etc.
« Last Edit: March 06, 2021, 06:42:36 PM by Nigel » Logged

1984 2.0 Carb HPE [ex Aus] Silver..turning to Grey Finanza.
2007 Mazda 6 2.3 [current daily, highly recommended]
The past:
1980 2.0 HPE White in South Africa [hope it survives!]
1976 1.6 Coupe Lancia Blu [PFG 76R] [probably deceased]
oh,and an Uno Turbo 1997 also in SA [stolen,never recovered]
donaldb7
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« Reply #25 on: March 06, 2021, 07:00:50 PM »

That makes a lot of sense 😂! Drained all of the old fuel and luckily it was put away with a fairly full tank! After draining, I noticed the tank looked surprisingly clean, therefore figured I’d be okay to do without taking the tank out and cleaning it. Will make sure to change the fuel filter a few times to start with! The fuel in the car right now is brand new so that shouldn’t be an issue! Wanting to replace the fuel lines but figured I’d test it first to see if I can get the car running before doing that. Thanks for the advice though! Is there anyway to refurbish the oil pressure sender? Or easier just to get a replacement?

Cheers
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SanRemo78
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« Reply #26 on: March 06, 2021, 07:07:58 PM »

When you turn the ignition on do you get a red low oil pressure warning light on the dash? Does that go out when you're cranking the engine on the starter? If so the pressure sender on the block will be faulty (assuming wiring continuity).
Guy
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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #27 on: March 06, 2021, 08:10:01 PM »

You say you turned it over without the sparks "connected". When trying to get some oil pressure up I would think you need to do it without spark plugs fitted so it cranks at a higher speed. The other thing to bear in mind is the tendency to register very low oil pressure at low engine speeds. I thought my first Beta needed an engine rebuild till someone explained that the indication of failing oil pressure at tick over was quite normal. 
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1995 Dedra 2.0 16v SW
1987 Y10 Fire
1977 Beta Spider 1.6
1962 Flaminia Berlina 2.5
Nigel
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« Reply #28 on: March 06, 2021, 10:14:21 PM »

It's not possible to open the oil pressure sender, and new ones are quite cheap so go for that.
The larger of the 2 senders on the oil filter block is the pressure. The smaller one is the warning light.
If you ground the warning lamp wire at the engine end. the light should glow. If not, check the bulb in the dash.
If it still doesn't glow, you have a wiring issue.

In any case, changing all the dash bulbs is a good plan as then you're starting from a known quantity.

Looks like you dodged a bullet with the full tank. Rust is much less likely during storage.
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1984 2.0 Carb HPE [ex Aus] Silver..turning to Grey Finanza.
2007 Mazda 6 2.3 [current daily, highly recommended]
The past:
1980 2.0 HPE White in South Africa [hope it survives!]
1976 1.6 Coupe Lancia Blu [PFG 76R] [probably deceased]
oh,and an Uno Turbo 1997 also in SA [stolen,never recovered]
SanRemo78
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« Reply #29 on: March 06, 2021, 11:19:04 PM »

It's not possible to open the oil pressure sender, and new ones are quite cheap so go for that.
The larger of the 2 senders on the oil filter block is the pressure. The smaller one is the warning light.

I think there should be 3 senders on the oil filter block? At least that's my memory from 30+ years ago. Oil pressure gauge, oil pressure warning light and the oil temperature gauge?

And if anyone needs the union that holds 2 and is secured to the oil filter block by the third sender I think I have one somewhere in the garage.

Guy
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Hawk HF3000 - Square Arch Stratos Replica - owned since 1988.
Hawk HF 3000 - Round Arch Stratos Replica - Under construction.
Alfa Romeo 159 T1 2.4 Q4 Sportwagon - Believed one of 4 in UK.
Nigel
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« Reply #30 on: March 07, 2021, 09:12:41 AM »

Exactly right Guy.

I forgot about the temp sender, and its gauge.

As time and various mechanics hands goes by, these wires can become accidentally swopped around.
So if suspect readings are noticed, it's worth checking that first.
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1984 2.0 Carb HPE [ex Aus] Silver..turning to Grey Finanza.
2007 Mazda 6 2.3 [current daily, highly recommended]
The past:
1980 2.0 HPE White in South Africa [hope it survives!]
1976 1.6 Coupe Lancia Blu [PFG 76R] [probably deceased]
oh,and an Uno Turbo 1997 also in SA [stolen,never recovered]
WestonE
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« Reply #31 on: March 07, 2021, 10:06:41 AM »

The Classic mechanics solution here it to fit a good quality capillary Oil Pressure gauge for testing. The Race Tech ones are excellent and will tell you the truth unlike the OE sender and dashboard. The OE senders fail over time but at best the OE gauges are vague and slow.

The engine does need some turnover speed to generate oil pressure and beware oil filters without the anti-drain back flap. These need a lot more cranking to get oil pressure which is not a good thing.

Eric 
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donaldb7
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« Reply #32 on: March 07, 2021, 03:52:20 PM »

Thanks for all that info guys! If I’m cranking the engine with the spark plugs out completely and an oil pressure gauge in place of the sensor, what sort of psi should I be looking to see?
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WestonE
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« Reply #33 on: March 07, 2021, 04:36:53 PM »

The Low Oil Pressure light goes out at 14PSI  on a Beta. If you see 15 -30PSI cranking you are doing OK. The pressure will come up on starting in seconds.

On long standing engines a light pre oil of the cams and the bores is sensible but expect a white cloud on starting!

Eric   
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donaldb7
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« Reply #34 on: March 07, 2021, 06:44:23 PM »

And any brand recommendations for a new oil pressure sender?
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capriblu
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« Reply #35 on: March 07, 2021, 09:16:17 PM »

And any brand recommendations for a new oil pressure sender?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FAE-Oil-Pressure-Sender-Unit-14530-Discount-Car-Parts-/291625987285
« Last Edit: March 07, 2021, 09:17:50 PM by capriblu » Logged

!980 2.0 Coupe - Owned since 1990
donaldb7
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« Reply #36 on: March 07, 2021, 10:42:14 PM »


Unfortunately they don't post that to my location
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capriblu
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« Reply #37 on: March 07, 2021, 10:57:03 PM »


Oh dear. Try this one ?  (I have bought various items from this seller in the past - all OK)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Replacement-FIAT-LANCIA-Engine-oil-pressure-sender-Transmitter-0-8-Bar-/303552142624
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!980 2.0 Coupe - Owned since 1990
donaldb7
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« Reply #38 on: March 08, 2021, 10:37:56 AM »



Ordered!
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mtulloch
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« Reply #39 on: March 09, 2021, 09:57:44 PM »


Why, where are you?
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