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News: NEC Classic Car Show 12th-14th November 2021
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Author Topic: Spyder restoration - long time coming  (Read 44633 times)
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GerardJPC
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« Reply #240 on: January 19, 2021, 09:30:55 AM »

That might perhaps be a cost saving measure in 1300s, Neil.  I will dig out my brochures but think that door inserts to match the seats were possibly a thing in 1600s.
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1979 Beta 1600 Coupe

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GerardJPC
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« Reply #241 on: January 19, 2021, 09:32:25 AM »

Early Spiders/Spyders all had the caramel vinyl seats IIRC - presumably to resist damage if caught topless in a shower (er...).   My late Spider had black vinyl seats.
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1979 Beta 1600 Coupe

1962 Lancia Appia Series 3 Berlina
1973 Fiat 124 Sport Coupe 1800
1975 Lancia 2000 HF Coupe
1977 Princess 2200 HL
1981 Lotus Eclat Series 2 (project FOR SALE)
1982 Moto Guzzi V50 Monza
1982 Moto Morini 350 Sport
1983 Land Rover Series 3 88
2009 Jaguar XK 5.0
Neil-yaj396
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1979 1300 Coupe


« Reply #242 on: January 19, 2021, 09:34:09 AM »

That might perhaps be a cost saving measure in 1300s, Neil.  I will dig out my brochures but think that door inserts to match the seats were possibly a thing in 1600s.

Maybe, but I bought the cards separately, so unlikely to have come off a 1300.
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peteracs
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« Reply #243 on: January 19, 2021, 10:27:05 AM »

Hi

I think Gerard is correct, vaguely Remember it on the early HPE I had, I will check the parts book later as they will be listed there.

Peter
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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #244 on: January 19, 2021, 09:09:59 PM »

My 1978 1600 coupe had seat fabric on the door cards as did an S Reg 1300 coupe I broke for spares. My 1977 1600 Spider has vinyl on the door cards to match the seats. The implication is that all the trim should match. I hope that may help.
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peteracs
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« Reply #245 on: January 21, 2021, 11:56:06 PM »

A bit of a frustrating day today. Started to bleed the brakes and found that I could not get any fluid through to front brakes which are on a separate circuit to the back ones. The other circuit had fluid in from me adding fluid to the master cylinder a few weeks ago. After disconnecting pipes, turns out the master cycling I had refurbished several years ago was not in a great state and the front plunger was stuck. So decided to buy a new one as could not face rebuilding it again and having a problem after that. I am hoping the servo is ok as now way I can test at present.

I also have had difficulty getting the engine to idle once the auto choke comes off, anything below about 2000 rpm and it stalls pretty quickly. I am assuming it relates to the idle screw setting/dirt etc. I had cleaned the carb and fitted a refurb kit, again a few years ago. I removed the carb and tried to check the float level, but there does not seem to be a measurement for it so have to assume it is not too critical. I also cleaned out the idle jet, but so far nothing has made a difference. I am aiming to install the AEM sensor in the exhaust tomorrow to see what the fuel/air ratio is and see if that gives me a clue.

One thing which did go ok today was checking the timing. My old timing lamp dates from the Ancient past and does not give a good solid position, more a blur, so I bought a Powerspark TL100, basic timing light. This produces a precise flash which shows the timing superbly and I was able to get it setup the best I can given the poor idle.

Peter
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Neil-yaj396
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1979 1300 Coupe


« Reply #246 on: January 22, 2021, 09:25:08 AM »

Peter

My first 1300 would not idle well until fully warmed up. If I hit traffic I'd use the hand throttle to stop it stalling. Once warm it was OK and if you messed with it you ended up with a very high warm idle (1800 rpm).

My current car idles OK when cold, but does idle on the high side when warm.

I do wonder if there simply isn't enough adjustment in the carbs to cover the full temperature range. I had several cars in the 80's where you were messing with the choke until warm and some drivers removed automatic chokes so that they could do this. We are spoilt by modern fuel injection!
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WestonE
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« Reply #247 on: January 22, 2021, 10:41:04 AM »

Hi Peter

A Gunsons Colour Tune is your friend for fixing the idle mixture. Old school tech that works remarkably well because you can literally see what is going on. For twin carb set ups 2 of them help to see issues in balance and by cylinder.

Not for FI though where a lambda sensor in each exhaust primary is better. I have these ports in my Montecarlo exhaust.
 
FYI On turbo setups K type heat sensors in each primary get used.

Eric
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peteracs
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« Reply #248 on: January 22, 2021, 02:07:51 PM »

Hi Eric

As it happens I have a colour tune, last used many many moons ago and did not realise I would be in need of it. It will be interesting to see what that and the exhaust sensor give.

I do suspect the carb may need a good soaking or Ultrasound cleaning however.

Thanks

Peter
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peteracs
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« Reply #249 on: February 03, 2021, 09:49:13 AM »

Not a lot to report recently as a refurb of the Utility room which was always planned for the end of Jan has taken priority, hopefully near the end of fitting the units and sink now.

I have received the new master cylinder and yesterday picked up the re-chromed wheel bolts which although a bit expensive 5 + vat each, the result is very pleasing and allows me to reuse the originals rather than buying new ones.

Peter  


* BCE3AD54-6AB7-4B9D-ADED-0A55A34E6051.jpeg (115.11 KB, 640x480 - viewed 148 times.)
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WestonE
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« Reply #250 on: February 03, 2021, 01:11:36 PM »

Satisfyingly Shinny!
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peteracs
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« Reply #251 on: February 03, 2021, 01:36:55 PM »

Hi Eric

Yes, and hopefully fairly tolerant to the wheel brace....

Peter
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Saab 9-3 1.9Tid Cabrio
capriblu
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« Reply #252 on: February 04, 2021, 10:03:10 AM »

Were they post plating de-embrittled?

Always scares me when I see wheel studs going anywhere near pickling or electroplating processes!
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peteracs
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« Reply #253 on: February 04, 2021, 01:06:33 PM »

Were they post plating de-embrittled?

Always scares me when I see wheel studs going anywhere near pickling or electroplating processes!

Hi

I have no idea what that means, please enlighten me and I will ask the question...!

Peter
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peteracs
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« Reply #254 on: February 04, 2021, 02:06:56 PM »

Hi

Hmm, well the answer is no, and having read up about it, not sure where to go with them now as de embrittling appears to not be a 100% effective anyway. Wish I was aware of this issue before sending them off....

Peter
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capriblu
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« Reply #255 on: February 04, 2021, 04:24:05 PM »

Peter - didn't want to scare and I'm sure they will be absolutely fine, but I would just be aware.

Regarding the de-embrittling process then yes technically not 100% effective and ideally should be done straight after process but I'm sure if still relatively fresh (a couple of days) then an hour in your kitchen oven at max temperature (200+) would be 80% effective  - perhaps just try one to check for no discoloration/tarnishing but should be fine if clean and not too hot.

Whilst the advent of the web provides ample research material for the emergence of an army of armchair expert doomsters on all these things then on this subject I do, unfortunately have professional experience and involvement (albeit 25 years ago) of a similar issue affecting failure of wheel studs en-masse on assembly and within first 10 miles of road use on a well known premium brand UK manufactured vehicle.  
« Last Edit: February 04, 2021, 04:27:45 PM by capriblu » Logged

!980 2.0 Coupe - Owned since 1990
peteracs
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« Reply #256 on: February 04, 2021, 05:45:21 PM »

Hi

Thanks, I will give it a go and I will keep my figures crossed. I was aiming to add some locking wheel nuts at some point, so hopefully that will go some way to helping out should any fail on me.

Peter
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WestonE
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« Reply #257 on: February 04, 2021, 07:27:48 PM »

Hi Peter

This is why the 12.9 grade bolts on TC engines (cam and flywheel bolts for example) must only be chemically blacked not Gold Passivated/ Yellow Zinc plated. Paul Courtney of the Monte Consortium was shocked to watch GC throw away his freshly plated high tensile bolts.

Most wheel bolts/studs are typically 10.9 grade, so stronger than the common 8.8 grade but not as brittle as higher tensile 12.9 bolts i.e. less likely to fail dramatically.

BTW there are some shocking Chinese chrome wheel bolts out there that carry no rating and barely make the 4.4 standard AKA as chocolate bolts.

You are not racing and the car is light with light wheels, with the oven treatment I think you will be fine.

Eric   
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mangocrazy
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« Reply #258 on: February 05, 2021, 02:41:45 PM »

I had a similar experience when visiting Guy. He took one look at the 12.9 cam wheel bolts that I'd had electroless nickel plated and threw them in the bin.  He allowed me to keep the 8.8 bolts. Can't remember if there were any 10.9 bolts in the box. But if the bolts had originally been chrome plated and you were merely renewing the plating, wouldn't that indicate that all was OK?
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peteracs
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« Reply #259 on: February 05, 2021, 07:12:15 PM »

Hi Graham

I understand from reading that the problem is due to the process, so a second time round would still introduce the hydrogen into the bolts which is the problem.

Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Saab 9-3 1.9Tid Cabrio
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