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Author Topic: Hub bearing nut removal tool  (Read 8911 times)
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ah_sprite
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« on: March 04, 2012, 02:17:19 PM »

Hi all
I'm a new poster on here. I'm looking to borrow a hub bearing retainer removal tool for 10 days or so ASAP. Can anybody offer one for me to borrow? I'm willing to pay a loan charge, along with, of course, postage.
Either PM me or send me an email to  richard  (at) craigsonline (dot co dot uk).

Regards
Richard
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HFStuart
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« Reply #1 on: March 04, 2012, 07:03:42 PM »

I have one you're welcome to borrow but...if the retaining ring has been in place for a long time you won't get it out easliy with the tool (if at all). Sometimes the only way is to split them and colapse them.

The tool is of use in fitting the new ones though.

pm me.
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markwast
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« Reply #2 on: March 04, 2012, 08:36:53 PM »

Someone borrowed mine and not been able to get in touch but i will need the retaining ring tool too if someone has one i can borrow. It was loaned to Tony Harrison , then he loaned it to someone else.......not a happy bunny....
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HFStuart
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« Reply #3 on: March 04, 2012, 08:55:42 PM »

Just so everyone knows what we're on about

This the one Tony had http://www.flickr.com/photos/tonysphotos/4365576859/#in/photostream/

And this is the rather less substantial one I got from Bayless http://www.midwest-bayless.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=208227&c=192789&i=250918513  Only $39 but not quite in the same league


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markwast
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« Reply #4 on: March 04, 2012, 09:27:06 PM »

Yes Stuart thats mine, .
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TonyLanciaBeta
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« Reply #5 on: March 05, 2012, 09:53:27 PM »

now I'm feeling really guilty  :'(
I have just spent the 2 hours going through my email inbox, I have another line of inquiry to follow  Huh?

In case someone recognizes it and has a memory as bad as mine here it is(was)  Embarrassed

 
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Tony Harrison - Farnborough, Hants
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mangocrazy
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« Reply #6 on: March 15, 2012, 10:06:13 PM »

I can't help with Mark W's lost tool, but I do know that there's a guy on eBay who specialises in making tools like this for undoing motorcycle swingarms and similar. If dimensions or a drawing could be furnished, I'm sure he could re-manufacture an item like this. I'll edit this post with the eBay seller's Id when I've found it...

<edit> this is the kind of thing he makes for bikes:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260957978942

I know that the Lancia tool is a lot meatier than this example, but if he has a CNC milling machine and the necessary dimensions, what can't be achieved?
« Last Edit: March 15, 2012, 10:16:35 PM by mangocrazy » Logged

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MattNoVAT
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« Reply #7 on: March 16, 2012, 12:02:05 PM »

I Have emailed Kev, the guy who makes these.  I will send him a spare lock ring I have and have a new socket made to measure.
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HFStuart
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« Reply #8 on: March 16, 2012, 02:23:05 PM »

Are front and rear the same tool? I know they are different O/Ds
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MattNoVAT
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« Reply #9 on: March 16, 2012, 03:56:38 PM »

Stuart,

Same internal diameter, only the outside diameter is different. IIRC by 2mm.

As usual, it makes you wonder why they did not just make the front and rear hubs lock rings the same size?
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1981 2000 Coupe S2/FL
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mangocrazy
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« Reply #10 on: March 16, 2012, 06:08:36 PM »

I Have emailed Kev, the guy who makes these.  I will send him a spare lock ring I have and have a new socket made to measure.

Excellent - something else to be added to Betaboyz range, perhaps?

And just a thought - seeing as the bearing nut is such a b*****d to remove, might it not be an idea to make it a 3/4" drive socket, rather than 1/2" drive?
« Last Edit: March 16, 2012, 06:21:13 PM by mangocrazy » Logged

1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2017 KTM Duke 690R
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
1980 Yamaha RD350LC
TonyLanciaBeta
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« Reply #11 on: March 16, 2012, 08:14:44 PM »

Thanks Mango

you might have saved my bacon Wink, could you put me down for two please Matt
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Tony Harrison - Farnborough, Hants
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1981 Beta Coupe 2L(being restored)
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« Reply #12 on: March 16, 2012, 08:57:18 PM »

Tony - I've texted you about this just to be sure!
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1981 2000 Coupe S2/FL
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rossocorsa
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« Reply #13 on: March 17, 2012, 09:57:32 AM »

I Have emailed Kev, the guy who makes these.  I will send him a spare lock ring I have and have a new socket made to measure.

Excellent - something else to be added to Betaboyz range, perhaps?

And just a thought - seeing as the bearing nut is such a b*****d to remove, might it not be an idea to make it a 3/4" drive socket, rather than 1/2" drive?

 not many folk have 3/4 drive in their garage so I think the 1/2 is better from a point of view of being more universally useful
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mangocrazy
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« Reply #14 on: March 17, 2012, 10:57:13 AM »


And just a thought - seeing as the bearing nut is such a b*****d to remove, might it not be an idea to make it a 3/4" drive socket, rather than 1/2" drive?


 not many folk have 3/4 drive in their garage so I think the 1/2 is better from a point of view of being more universally useful

Fair point, but a 3/4" breaker bar for use with this kind of tool doesn't cost a fortune (around 20 here):

http://www.pvrdirect.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?catref=AK731

And a 3/4" breaker bar will transmit a lot more force than a 1/2", and can be used for a variety of jobs. Having said that, I'd be happy to go with the majority view, especially as I've never done the job myself.
« Last Edit: March 17, 2012, 11:05:16 AM by mangocrazy » Logged

1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2017 KTM Duke 690R
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
1980 Yamaha RD350LC
rossocorsa
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« Reply #15 on: March 17, 2012, 11:19:45 AM »

I think you can argue for either size personally I use a compressor and my impact gun is 1/2 inch so maybe i am biased! I can't say that at high loads I've found those cheap breaker bars all that confidence inducing,  I use an extendable ratchet set when all else fails (I think it was rolson brand but it's years old now) also 1/2 inch and it has pretty much managed to get anything off eventually  
« Last Edit: March 17, 2012, 12:15:55 PM by rossocorsa » Logged
mangocrazy
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« Reply #16 on: March 17, 2012, 04:28:47 PM »

Yes, know what you mean about cheap tools. After noticing that the breaker bar I had linked to was only 600mm long (same as a 1/2" breaker bar), I checked out the price of a 1000mm long version, also by Sealey. It was over 60. So once you start to put some serious leverage in, the price goes up accordingly...
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1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2017 KTM Duke 690R
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
1980 Yamaha RD350LC
HFStuart
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« Reply #17 on: March 17, 2012, 05:59:25 PM »

Just my thoughts on this but my long 3/4" bar has made my life so much easier. Hub nuts, crank nuts and even the notorius bottom ball joints on my 406 coupe. It's much more controlled and I'm not worried about breaking the knuckle as I have previously on 1/2" bars - even good quality ones.

I'd put a 3/4" hole in it - then if you only have a 1/2" bar or impact then a step up adaptor isn't that expensive and those that have larger tools (.......) can use them.
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MattNoVAT
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« Reply #18 on: March 17, 2012, 06:55:36 PM »

Snigger snigger!!
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WestonE
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« Reply #19 on: March 18, 2012, 08:07:16 PM »

Chaps

I cheat and use a cordless Milwaukee impact gun with 650Nm of torque it does not matter if I use the 1/2 inch drive it come with or an adaptor to 3/4 as long as they are impact gun material since the chrome vanadium type can explode into shrapnel. I no longer need a 10 feet scaffold pole to losen crank nuts rusted in place over 30 years.

Eric
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