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Author Topic: Engine removal  (Read 3979 times)
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glovebeast
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« on: November 05, 2009, 10:59:17 PM »

Whats the best way - lift it out or drop it on the subframe?

If you lift it, what is the best place to attach ropes as there doesn't appear to be a lifting eye (on a VX).

Any advice welcome! (Don't do it is probably the best!)
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hutch6610
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« Reply #1 on: November 06, 2009, 01:22:08 AM »

Drop it on the subframe is best in my opinion.
Too much grief removing drive shafts etc in situ.
You attach a bracket and stay across the strut tops and then lift with a block and tackle (that's assuming you are not scrapping the car) - although it could be done with a hydraulic engine crane, problem being the subframe has to be on a trolley with enough ground clearance to clear the legs of the crane.

Its important to have a stay between the strut tops or the weight will distort the inner wings when you lift and scr*w the geometry of the car.

Alternatively - attach a nylon strap around the lower cross member below the radiator (you can use an old seat belt but be very careful!) especially if the cross member is rusty and make sure you tie a good knot.

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HFStuart
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« Reply #2 on: November 06, 2009, 12:42:33 PM »

Agree from beneath is easiest.

I did it with a substantial engine crane and a couple of slings around the front crosmember. That helps keep the legs of the crane away from the trolley.

I found a mechanics creeper worked well as a trolley to drag the subrame / engine assmbly out.

Also depending on what your planning to do the the engine if you take the head off first you can get the car up high enough with jacks to slide the engine out through one of the wheelarches.
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glovebeast
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« Reply #3 on: November 07, 2009, 07:24:16 PM »

Thanks for the advice. Engine is coming out to allow good access for repairing rusty front crossmember!

The car is very solid, just a few bits of rust here and there on wheel arches, bonnet leading edge, passenger door bottom, around fuel filler (old repair) and said cross member.

While engine is out, cam belt will be changed and oil leak from rear cam cover fixed.

Was at Auto Italia Houten, Holland last weekend and saw a mint HPE Vx in the car park, for sale for only 5k euro - tempted!

Back down there on Friday 13th(!), so will let you know how it goesw.

Cheers
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LanciaDave
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« Reply #4 on: November 12, 2009, 10:32:41 AM »

   In that case I would definitely drop the subframe as you will need to anyway for the repairs. I've tried different methods for different repairs, and I'm starting to beleive if you're removing the block, the trans, or it's an FI or VX, the easiest method is to drop the subframe. If you only need to remove the head, or it's an earlier car (no VX or FI), some of the other methods are okay.
   While you have the subframe out, I would check the steering rack and hoses, replace the boot, regrease, and check the inner tie rod ends where they attach to the rack. It's a good idea to give any attention to the exhaust manifold at this time if it requires it. The other thing I would thoroughly inspect and replace if needed are the shift linkage bushings. They are very much easier to access while you have the whole engine out. Just remember to replace one at a time and verify operation before going to the next one if you decide to replace them all.
 
I hope this helps,
Dave Decker
A 'couple' Beta's
Woodburn, OR.  USA

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Dave
Wilds of the Pacific NW, USA
77 HPE 1.8L manual steering
77 Sedan 2L FI
84 HPE Vx
76 Scorpion (Montecarlo) 2L w/dual 40DCNF
glovebeast
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« Reply #5 on: November 15, 2009, 06:48:21 PM »

Thanks again for the advice.

Engine and sub-frame were successfully removed, we missed one pipe to the bottom of the power steering pump and the heater return pipe that Haynes warns you about, but apart from that, all went very well.

There are a couple of areas on the inner wings that require attention, as well as the front cross-member, but no nasty surprises. The subframe itself looks in very good shape, having a good coat of old oil to preserve it! It will be shot blasted to see what it is like under the oil. What is the best finish, in terms of rust protection and durability - Hammerite, chassis black, powder coating?

Steering rack gaiters need replacing - one is split. Will do gear linkage, wishbone bushes/ball joints and anti-roll bar bushes while it's all apart.

Engine wise, it will get a new cam belt and the cam cover gaskets will be changed to hopefully cure the oil leak down the back of the engine. Broken cam cover will get replaced too. All fuel pipes and water hoses will get changed while were about it. Anything else worth doing while engine is out - it's only done sixty odd thousand and was running sweet as a very sweet thing with extra sugar when it went into the body shop for a few cosmetic improvements 12 months ago!

At least now we have some progress, and it was great to see another HPE VX, also in silver, up at the motor show yesterday - want to be back behind the wheel of mine, and maybe get it shown at the NEC next year.

Cheers
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hutch6610
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« Reply #6 on: November 18, 2009, 09:43:56 PM »

As regards painting the subframe - have been using a product called Epoxy Mastic its a two part paint as the name implies.
Not bad at all, brush it on after thinning it with 17% max thinner (included and i should hope so for the price)
Two coats and your done, best part is a little goes a long way, half a tea mug is all you need for one good thick coat so don't mix more than absolutely necessary.
Can get it from;
http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm

Only two suggestion for you with the engine out (seeing as you have pretty much covered everything else) is to re-wrap up and secure the wiring loom, you can now get into all the nooks and crannies so to speak and while your at it you can lube and take out all the slack in the remote ball links/cranks for the brakes and clutch cable.
ball links have caps secured with split pins so its just a matter of opening them up, packing with grease and refitting the cap and securing with a new split pin.
Oh may as well lube the clutch cable as well, you will be surprised how light the clutch becomes - engine oil works well.
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Paul TC
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« Reply #7 on: December 03, 2009, 01:49:13 PM »

Hi

Sounds like you're doing a great job but whilst you have the engine and sub frame out you may want to rebush your wishbones and anti-roll bar if you've
not already done it, beta boyz poly-bush sets make a great difference to the car, also check the engine rubber mounting under the cam wheel side of the
engine, its much easier to do it now.

Keep up the good work

Paul
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spider2000
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« Reply #8 on: December 03, 2009, 05:03:07 PM »

As to regards of preserving the subframe, once and for all, have it powdercoated this is in my opinion the best way, it is easy to clean and it will not easily damage by grit and other roadside abrasives.
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mangocrazy
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« Reply #9 on: December 30, 2010, 06:34:28 PM »

As to regards of preserving the subframe, once and for all, have it powdercoated this is in my opinion the best way, it is easy to clean and it will not easily damage by grit and other roadside abrasives.
Just a thought, but wouldn't getting the subframe galvanised be the ultimate anti-rust move? You could always paint on top of the galv if the shiny silveryness of the galv is a bit too vivid.
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