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Author Topic: getting the doors to close  (Read 1231 times)
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tonylanciabeta
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« on: November 30, 2008, 05:21:15 PM »

I am having real problems trying to get my spyder doors to shut without having to slam them.

The door seals are original and were taken off a coupe whose doors closed easily.
I have tried all the adjustments - hinges-strike plate without any real improvement.

Does any one know if the betas had spacers between the hinges and the fixing point into the door? This is the only way I think I can get the doors and window surrounds to move further away from the door aperture. (though the wing alignment could become an issue).

Any thoughts gratefully received

thanks, spydervx

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The best way in my opinion is to remove the rubber seal first and door striker from the "B" post with a nineteen mm deep socket completely to begin with.
Then you remove the door panel - i assume you have not because you mention "shims" for the hinges - you will find six thirteen mm bolts - three per hinge.
These allow the door to move backward and forward in the door aperture to adjust the the door shut clearance.
There usually is enough movement in these and the hinges where they are attached to the "A" post to get a perfect fit.
Start by undoing the six Phillips / posi-drive, so you can line the door up flush with the wing - get some one to help you, Beta doors are heavy.
You may have to compromise here because your car - like mine - has been through a lot of owners who probably have changed wings etc.
I usually line them up with the rear wing first, then adjust the wing to fit accordingly.
Once you have them lined up you can undo the thirteen mm bolts a bit, this will allow you to slide the doors to centre them in the available aperture - you can actually tilt them a few degrees from horizontal.
Once you are satisfied with the fit, tighten everything up - double check everything is still OK, then refit and adjust the striker.
It's a long winded affair but you should be able to get a good fit.
Don't forget to put a blob of grease where the striker makes contact with the lock after.
Good luck.

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Thanks Hutch6610
That is useful detailed advice.
I have had the doors off. The shims / spacers I was wondering about would be on the 13mm bolts between back of hinge - front of door mounting point. but I think they would be really difficult to get in and I will work through your method next.
Good advice regarding removing the striker
Thanks
spydervx

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