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Author Topic: Brake hose position  (Read 605 times)
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JohnFol
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« on: August 25, 2024, 06:18:17 PM »

Hi all just swapped out front disks and pads. Needed to remove caliper completely to retract it.

Refitted hoses and one looks like it's too tight a bend. The banjo fitting has peg on caliper that locates with peg on hose so I know the angle is correct.

Could just do with a 2nd opinion before I say "job done".
Ps wheels point straight



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Nigel
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« Reply #1 on: August 25, 2024, 10:51:58 PM »

Hi John,

I think I would try to push a little more hose through the
strut clamp so as to reduce the bend radius.

Nigel
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SanRemo78
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« Reply #2 on: August 26, 2024, 08:04:24 AM »

Plus one for that suggestion Nigel, a little WD40 sprayed on the rubber and it should slide through. I'd also re-instate the wear indicator wire. Is the loom end just flapping loose somewhere above waiting to earth out at an inopportune moment?
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WestonE
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« Reply #3 on: August 26, 2024, 08:15:51 AM »

Hi John, I agree with the other comments on hose to clamp position. I think I would consider replacement with Braided hoses given the corrosion on those end fittings. Not an MOT fail and not dangerous yet, but these are brakes after all.

Eric
 
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squiglyzigly
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« Reply #4 on: August 26, 2024, 01:11:21 PM »

Nipple covers, missus swears by them. Reduces the chances of them snapping off when you need them to move.
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SanRemo78
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« Reply #5 on: August 26, 2024, 01:54:18 PM »

Nipple covers won't help you.... Other than keeping crap out of the tube. It's galvanic corrosion between two different metals. I was lucky with mine but it took a week of soaking in release fluid and then a sharp tap on a six sided, tight fitting spanner to release them all. Time is what it takes to release them, maybe a little heat too? Not usually something you get when doing a time limited repair...
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JohnFol
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« Reply #6 on: August 26, 2024, 02:54:55 PM »

Thanks all.
New hoses ordered (thanks Mark), and going for caliper refurb kit at same time. You'll all be pleased to hear it includes nipple covers but not pistons.

Stopping short of powder coating/plating as, and as someone said on a different thread it's time not driving in the sun, and a job for winter.


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peteracs
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Peter Stokes


« Reply #7 on: August 26, 2024, 03:40:49 PM »

Hi John

I used stainless bleed nipples on mine (and nice fitting plastic covers to keep the crap out!). Not a solution to the mis matched metals, but no more rust. The only part of the calipers you need to paint ideally is the iron shoe part, the body is alloy and painting is not needed in my opinion. The one job which is a pain is separating the shoe from the main body where the interaction of the two metals is usually a pain together with the detent spring….

Peter
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JohnFol
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« Reply #8 on: August 26, 2024, 05:10:54 PM »

Are bleed nipples a standard size, and available from a generic motor factors? Also finding the nut size is not quite 7mm.

And yes, gone for braided.
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JASPER_40
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« Reply #9 on: October 14, 2024, 07:17:02 AM »

Can you not just pull out the locating pins from the banjo to straighten the pipe alignment ? (When you get your nice new braided lines, they will not have locating pins anyway)

is the front circuit pipe obstructing the bleed nipple anyway ?
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JohnFol
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« Reply #10 on: October 14, 2024, 08:45:29 AM »

Calipers now into week 4 of being refurbed / plated and now in possession of branded hoses so the whole lot is coming off.

Thanks for all the replies
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