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Author Topic: Testing the cut off solenoid  (Read 1594 times)
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JohnFol
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« on: March 25, 2022, 01:59:54 PM »

Morning all, finally got round to troubleshooting the rough running carb. I've taken the solenoid out and think it's faulty. The way I tested it was to clamp a -ve terminal to the body and just apply 12V to the sole connector. The expectation was the solenoid retracts the actuator, and the spring returns it to extended when power removed. This didn't happen.

If I manually push the actuator back, then remove the power, it springs out.

So my gut feeling is, it's not working correctly. It's a really simple part to swap but before spending ~£40 I thought I'd get a 2nd opinion
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peteracs
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Peter Stokes


« Reply #1 on: March 25, 2022, 05:12:54 PM »

Maybe a bit of lubrication may help? If it starts then it cannot be seized under normal conditions and you were able to push it back, so a bit of working may save you the cost?

Peter
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squiglyzigly
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« Reply #2 on: March 25, 2022, 05:54:02 PM »

Also check the 12v power supply is reliable. Mine would cause intermittent stalling occasionally. Checked and cleaned connectors and fuse on the 12v supply and no more stalling.
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JohnFol
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« Reply #3 on: March 25, 2022, 06:02:36 PM »

I have a 12v transformer bolted to the bench with test terminals so fairly sure it's ok, but will try a car batter to be sure.

A squirt of WD40. . .  hmmm I should have thought of that


Many thanks for the ideas.
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JohnFol
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« Reply #4 on: March 25, 2022, 08:50:48 PM »

Can I just check that when 12v is applied the actuator should retract?
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squiglyzigly
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« Reply #5 on: March 25, 2022, 09:33:26 PM »

Maybe my comment was mis-understood. I meant the 12v supply on the car is good. Sometimes the connectors or fuses are less than perfect and when the car is on the move the 12v supply faulters. A simple voltage check with the ignition on shows no problem. It only faulters when things are vibrating and moving about.
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JohnFol
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« Reply #6 on: March 27, 2022, 06:50:08 PM »

I may have a solution  ..  Whilst off the car, if I push the plunger bit a few mm it seems to work. Makes me think the return spring pushes it beyond the limit of the electro magnet hence why it appears to have failed. To test the theory I gradually screwed it back in and am sure I can hear clicking when nearly fully tightened
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Modano
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« Reply #7 on: May 30, 2022, 07:30:58 PM »

Hi
A bit late Smiley
I had the same doubts on a brand new 32 dat.
It only works when screwed as it needs this little “push” to be operating. When screwed in the carburetor it will work. The clicking sound is really distinctive when turning key.
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JohnFol
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« Reply #8 on: May 30, 2022, 11:05:31 PM »

Not late at all and appreciated as it supports my theory.
Many thanks
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