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Author Topic: Weber 32 DAT (Coupé 1300) investigations  (Read 59 times)
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Jr. Member
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France France

Posts: 18

« on: September 05, 2021, 02:40:38 PM »

Hi !
this topic aims at discussing my findings, learnings and issues I'm running into with a 10 year-paused Weber 32 DAT (among other things).
I've collected over the years a huge amount of diagrams, books, documents, and now I'm practising them Smiley

The Weber 32 DAT is not that common (much less resources on the internet than many other Weber carbs, including parts, although the part numbers of many parts are shared with DMTR, DATR...)
I'm very lucky on this journey as I changed my Weber 32 DAT 3/250 (original one) a few months before I "paused" my car. Therefore the one in place was a brand new 32 DAT 3/251 (normally equipping 828 D3 engines), and therefore I have a spare carb to tear down, study, check etc...
BTW the original carb had nothing on spec (150 needle instead of 175, all jets were incorrect size ...)

On these models, there are not many ajustments to be made : only the idle screw on the bottom (left untouched yet) and a screw for the butterfly rest position (left untouched yet)

What was done so far
The first issue I solved were punctured floats. the spark plugs were literally wet after 10 sec (and the engine was extremely rough, hard to start, no revving up, and fuel smell in the oil). I took the donor carb for this.
I also changed the needle which had heavy marks on the conical side.
The float fulcrum was "rough" so I also took the old one.

The carb had brownish deposits (old fuel). so I gently cleaned the visible part in the float chamber.
Pipes from/to tank are free, the tank is not as rusty as I thought, and the fuel seems to come pretty clean (obviously changed the fuel filter for a MANN one)
Attached is a pic of the brownish deposits.

I only did basic accessible cleaning (blowing air into jets, cleaning with a toothbrush and fuel, cleaning inline fuel filter).
My first concerns were the float level. The specs are 7mm and 43mm for the total displacement. I had some troubles understanding the 43 mm one, but now I should be fine (see attached picture). I have to fine tune this value, and also check that both floats are at 7 mm. Will also change the metallic o ring of the needle.

The wet gasket
But, before talking about performance and ajustements, my first question is : is that normal that the gasket is always wet from fuel (I mean always, if it dried out after a while, it becomes instantly wet). When removing the top part you can see how wet it is in the picture ? I thought it was due to improper float level, but now that I'm approaching the right values this gasket is still wet.

I'll post some information and scans in the technical resources topic as well. I'll also post some videos.

* float.png (413.37 KB, 597x442 - viewed 30 times.)

* image1.jpeg (124.53 KB, 640x480 - viewed 32 times.)

* image0(1).jpeg (91.59 KB, 640x480 - viewed 33 times.)
Hero Member
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United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 324

« Reply #1 on: September 06, 2021, 08:15:27 AM »

My experience is that the gasket is always wet.
I expect it can never be dry because the fuel will always move about when the car is driven or from engine vibrations when idling.
Then there is the volatile nature of petrol. It evaporates very quickly, so the gasket will absorb the fumes.


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