Lancia Beta Forum
April 15, 2021, 08:27:09 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Beta Meeta 50th Anniversary 2022
https://www.betaboyz.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=4385.0
 
   Home   Help Contact Admin Search Calendar Gallery Articles Login Register  
Pages: 1 [2]
  Print  
Author Topic: Why was this disconnected?  (Read 641 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
AJ_Spider
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 16

Beta Spider 2000 (1980)


« Reply #20 on: March 01, 2021, 03:50:09 PM »

Battery trays are always vulnerable due to spilt battery acid. Am I right that the battery tray unbolts so you can take it out for repainting?

A small hinge and a wing nut bolt keeps it in place on one side and the battery slips under a lip on the edge nearest the wing (see some of the earlier photos). You have to be careful that the wing nut is properly fastened though, not a great solution tbh. Yes, it looks like the tray will come out, as it is bolted in place.
Logged
AJ_Spider
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 16

Beta Spider 2000 (1980)


« Reply #21 on: March 01, 2021, 03:51:09 PM »

4x13mm bolts on my VX. Just re-fitted it last week!

Yes, looks like mine has a similar deal.
Logged
AJ_Spider
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 16

Beta Spider 2000 (1980)


« Reply #22 on: March 01, 2021, 04:12:33 PM »

Hi Andrew, if you suspect electrics as the issue then changing battery will get you so far. Earthing crops up quite a few times on this forum, so too does checking HT leads, battery terminals etc. For example I have had my alternator reconditioned as I was only get 12v output. I still have feint glow on charging light and also have lower-than-expected voltage on wiper motor so I need to trace through a bit more of my electrics. Going on the fact mine was registered 1 year before yours I'm guessing there might be some common themes.

FYI I currently have carb, radiator, battery and starter removed for cleaning / refurb for the remainder of this week and next. If you need photos of "under the battery tray" or questions like "How long are the cables" I might be able to help.

Hi John, I put the battery in yesterday and left that switch unconnected, turned the key to start the electrics and put it into reverse, but no reversing lights. I then did the same with the switch connected, but still no reverse lights. Then checked to see if it would start and it did on second turnover and sounded fine. As you mentioned, there is a very faint light on the battery indicator, but nowhere near bright as before I took the battery out in January. So, I'm trying to figure out why the reverse lights aren't working in both instances and why the battery is draining?

Electrical issues: I had a new alternator fitted a few months after I bought it (I still have the old one if anyone is interested but it will need to be refurbed) and  re-furbed the wiper motor which made the wipers stronger than before (got me through the MOT in any case!) but adequate, not brilliant. The positive battery lead has an earth, the negative lead also has a wire loosely wrapped around it and doesn't look like it was factory fitted!

In regard to any questions, if you could confirm that it is the reverse switch (seeing as you also have your battery out) and what other issues could be causing A) the reverse lights not to function and B) what could be causing the battery drainage which seems to be occurring?

Thanks again for your time,

Andrew

Logged
SanRemo78
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 48


« Reply #23 on: March 01, 2021, 06:01:52 PM »

How about this: Get a circuit tester and see if either wire is live with the ignition on. If it is check that the other wire is an earth. Then try bridging them - connecting the two cables together and see if the result is reversing lights on? If they do come on it'll tell you that the switch on the gearbox is faulty. I'd also be tempted to check the bulbs aren't blown. Can you run a power cable from the battery positive to the rear light cluster multiplug and poke each terminal in turn to identify the connections? Obviously don't poke the earth lead!
Guy
« Last Edit: March 01, 2021, 06:04:15 PM by SanRemo78 » Logged

Hawk HF3000 - Square Arch Stratos Replica - owned since 1988.
Hawk HF 3000 - Round Arch Stratos Replica - Under construction.
Alfa Romeo 159 T1 2.4 Q4 Sportwagon - Believed one of 4 in UK.
peteracs
Administrator
Legendary Member
******
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 2500



« Reply #24 on: March 01, 2021, 06:22:47 PM »

Hi

For your battery drain, you need to hook up a multimeter in amps setting by disconnecting the positive lead to the battery and and putting the multimeter in series. This will tell you the current drain. It should be a few milliamps to cover the clock etc when the ignition is switched off.

You then need to systematically remove fuses to identify which circuit the main current drain is on. Once you have done that you can narrow it down to a specific item causing it.

I had a drain problem when I reconnected everything originally and it turned out to be the alternator, but in truth could be anything.

Peter
Logged

Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Saab 9-3 1.9Tid Cabrio
AJ_Spider
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 16

Beta Spider 2000 (1980)


« Reply #25 on: March 02, 2021, 07:01:31 PM »

How about this: Get a circuit tester and see if either wire is live with the ignition on. If it is check that the other wire is an earth. Then try bridging them - connecting the two cables together and see if the result is reversing lights on? If they do come on it'll tell you that the switch on the gearbox is faulty. I'd also be tempted to check the bulbs aren't blown. Can you run a power cable from the battery positive to the rear light cluster multiplug and poke each terminal in turn to identify the connections? Obviously don't poke the earth lead!
Guy

Hi Guy,
Thanks for the advice and some food for thought there. To be honest, the electrical stuff is a bit above my pay grade and I will probably get a professional involved. At least it is narrowing the issue down a bit.
Cheers,
Andrew
Logged
AJ_Spider
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 16

Beta Spider 2000 (1980)


« Reply #26 on: March 02, 2021, 07:03:52 PM »

Hi

For your battery drain, you need to hook up a multimeter in amps setting by disconnecting the positive lead to the battery and and putting the multimeter in series. This will tell you the current drain. It should be a few milliamps to cover the clock etc when the ignition is switched off.

You then need to systematically remove fuses to identify which circuit the main current drain is on. Once you have done that you can narrow it down to a specific item causing it.

I had a drain problem when I reconnected everything originally and it turned out to be the alternator, but in truth could be anything.

Peter

Hi Peter,
Thanks for the advice and this seems a bit more feasible for someone of my limited ability to carry out and I will give it a go in due course!
Cheers,
Andrew
Logged
Pages: 1 [2]
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
SMFAds for Free Forums
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!