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Author Topic: My HPE....now a rolling recommission  (Read 8515 times)
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Nigel
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« Reply #120 on: May 01, 2022, 01:54:11 PM »

I've had the slow wiper issue and weak indicators ever since I first got the car.
I found 10.8v at both relevant fuses, the rest reading a healthy 12.4v.
Going straight to source, the input of the ignition switch read 12.4v,
however the output was 11.8v.

I then removed the fuse box and connectors. Squeezed and cleaned each blade and
plug terminal, then refitted with liberal sprays of contact cleaner. This brought
the relevant fuses up to 11.8v,and wipers and indicators are now much improved and
I hope a new complete ignition switch now on order will be a cure.

On that subject, I finally got around to mounting a relay on a fabricated bracket at
the starter motor.

And I've also refitted the hatch screen trim, which was previously flapping loose in one
corner. I'll leave the pressure bricks overnight.

And finally, about 2 weeks ago, I sealed the aftermarket leaking electric sunroof surround
with black CT1, then had a local company wrap the roof. The offending roof is visible, but
I can now relax knowing that it won't ruin my interior again.


* 20220501_starter relay_resized.jpg (213.5 KB, 1008x490 - viewed 125 times.)

* 20220501_hatch trim_resized.jpg (251.21 KB, 1008x490 - viewed 125 times.)

* 20220422_at prestige_resized_1.jpg (265.8 KB, 490x1008 - viewed 126 times.)

* 20220422_wrap roof_resized.jpg (221.24 KB, 1008x490 - viewed 129 times.)
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1984 2.0 Carb HPE [ex Aus] Grigio Finanza.
2007 Mazda 6 2.3 [current daily, highly recommended]
The past:
1980 2.0 HPE White in South Africa [hope it survives!]
1976 1.6 Coupe Lancia Blu [PFG 76R] [probably deceased]
oh,and an Uno Turbo 1997 also in SA [stolen,never recovered]
Sandro
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« Reply #121 on: May 05, 2022, 09:04:20 AM »

Excellent work Nigel!


Good to see that rear trim window on!
( what was the bonding agent you used ? you did tell me I've forgotten. )


Andrew.
 
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1972 Honda cub
1984 Silver 2000i HPE
2005 Opel Vectra ( everyday )
Nigel
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« Reply #122 on: May 05, 2022, 12:04:02 PM »

I had a good result with the hatch trim.
It's in a good position and all corners are
seated well.
Andrew, it's a sealant/adhesive called CT1.
I asked a local screen company for a tube of their gloop, but the product and gun they use is much different.

Cheers, n.
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1984 2.0 Carb HPE [ex Aus] Grigio Finanza.
2007 Mazda 6 2.3 [current daily, highly recommended]
The past:
1980 2.0 HPE White in South Africa [hope it survives!]
1976 1.6 Coupe Lancia Blu [PFG 76R] [probably deceased]
oh,and an Uno Turbo 1997 also in SA [stolen,never recovered]
chrisc
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« Reply #123 on: May 05, 2022, 02:21:12 PM »


And finally, about 2 weeks ago, I sealed the aftermarket leaking electric sunroof surround
with black CT1, then had a local company wrap the roof. The offending roof is visible, but
I can now relax knowing that it won't ruin my interior again.


now why didn't I think of that before splashing out on putting mine back to metal Smiley
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Current:
S2FL Coupe 1600 (restoration project)

Former Lancias
HPE VX A52 VGK (parts donor)
C363 RPC (probably still sorned in cumbria with it's new owner)
Nigel
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« Reply #124 on: May 05, 2022, 06:42:37 PM »


And finally, about 2 weeks ago, I sealed the aftermarket leaking electric sunroof surround
with black CT1, then had a local company wrap the roof. The offending roof is visible, but
I can now relax knowing that it won't ruin my interior again.


now why didn't I think of that before splashing out on putting mine back to metal Smiley

Chris, after spending probably 100 hours on the upholstery, checking all the drains
properly, and then finding the inside soaking wet I decided something effective but
semi-permanent was needed.
It is a bodge, but remains
reversible for the future custodian.
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1984 2.0 Carb HPE [ex Aus] Grigio Finanza.
2007 Mazda 6 2.3 [current daily, highly recommended]
The past:
1980 2.0 HPE White in South Africa [hope it survives!]
1976 1.6 Coupe Lancia Blu [PFG 76R] [probably deceased]
oh,and an Uno Turbo 1997 also in SA [stolen,never recovered]
Sandro
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****
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Denmark Denmark

Posts: 131



« Reply #125 on: May 06, 2022, 11:47:16 AM »

I had a good result with the hatch trim.
It's in a good position and all corners are
seated well.
Andrew, it's a sealant/adhesive called CT1.
I asked a local screen company for a tube of their gloop, but the product and gun they use is much different.

Cheers, n.

Thanks Nigel, I probably could have used exactly the same method to bond mine, I found that my rear window trim ( and from I understand nearly all ) don't fit prefectly ( shapewise in relation to the recess form ) and some areas need a bit of extra black sealant applied.

Cheers Andrew. 
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1972 Honda cub
1984 Silver 2000i HPE
2005 Opel Vectra ( everyday )
Nigel
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« Reply #126 on: May 13, 2022, 11:13:12 PM »

I've fitted a new ignition switch but the problem remains.

I'm now going to check each circuit which is energised by the ignition switch.
These are wipers, indicators, rear screen,rear wiper, heater fan and I reckon, the ignition system
itself, i.e. coil and ecu. Any more? I suspect some of these are fed by the same fuse.
Luckily,I have late wiring diagrams to pore over.
Hopefully isolating one-by-one might identify the culprit.

Onwards I go...
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1984 2.0 Carb HPE [ex Aus] Grigio Finanza.
2007 Mazda 6 2.3 [current daily, highly recommended]
The past:
1980 2.0 HPE White in South Africa [hope it survives!]
1976 1.6 Coupe Lancia Blu [PFG 76R] [probably deceased]
oh,and an Uno Turbo 1997 also in SA [stolen,never recovered]
WestonE
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« Reply #127 on: May 14, 2022, 06:27:14 AM »

Hi Nigel

Include looking inside the fuse box by removing the back panel. You are looking for wires with bloated insulation from heat i.e. resistance. Also clean contacts and a strong click when you load your shiny new fuse. To tighten the contact a squeeze fuse removed will do. A Dremel with a small wire brush is great for getting clean contacts.

Enjoy?

Eric 
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Nigel
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« Reply #128 on: May 14, 2022, 11:13:08 PM »

I did exactly as you suggested Eric, and things are better already.
Cleaned terminals and new fuses where appropriate.
No signs of bloated cables within the fuse box, but there are some strange
goings-on. Fuses 1,6,9 and 14 have no outputs connected,although everything
functions. This is starting to look like a future rewiring project.

I disconnected the ign coil,then tried the wipers and indicators. Both much faster.
I found a high resistance at the coil: 2.4ohms, [looks to be the original
part number,so very old] so i've got a 1.5ohm coil on its way.

The encouragement is very helpful,thanks.

Nigel
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1984 2.0 Carb HPE [ex Aus] Grigio Finanza.
2007 Mazda 6 2.3 [current daily, highly recommended]
The past:
1980 2.0 HPE White in South Africa [hope it survives!]
1976 1.6 Coupe Lancia Blu [PFG 76R] [probably deceased]
oh,and an Uno Turbo 1997 also in SA [stolen,never recovered]
Nigel
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Posts: 527



« Reply #129 on: May 16, 2022, 04:51:12 PM »

Eric,
This is the coil i'm waiting for.
It's described as a 'ballast coil'. Does this indicate that
I could or should bypass the OEM ballast,or can it remain in the circuit?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2553889.m570.l1313&_nkw=+170625630589&_sacat=0

Thanks, Nigel
Logged

1984 2.0 Carb HPE [ex Aus] Grigio Finanza.
2007 Mazda 6 2.3 [current daily, highly recommended]
The past:
1980 2.0 HPE White in South Africa [hope it survives!]
1976 1.6 Coupe Lancia Blu [PFG 76R] [probably deceased]
oh,and an Uno Turbo 1997 also in SA [stolen,never recovered]
WestonE
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******
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United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 1516


« Reply #130 on: May 16, 2022, 06:47:48 PM »

Hi Nigel

I do not know and would have to check with Accu Spark and suggest you do just that. The later cars moved to dry coils because they are supposed to be more reliable and more compact. You definitely want the manufacturers tech sheet. A ballast might be needed to protect the ignition switch. Of course if you have a relay on the switch it is less of a concern.

Eric
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Nigel
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« Reply #131 on: May 17, 2022, 10:31:38 PM »

Eric,
Accu Spark replied saying "the coil is to be used in conjunction
with the existing ballast resistor." All good I thought.

However, upon fitting, no start. I bypassed the resistor and it started.
I checked the resistance between the terminals [the primary winding] of the new
coil and it read 2.8ohms. I am uncertain whether the absence of the resistor could
damage any other part of the ignition system.
I'd have thought that a coil advertised as a 1.5ohm coil should produce a similar reading?

I'm sending it back.

Refitted the old one and all's back running.
This conundrum will wait until my return from France. She's running well enough for that.

Logged

1984 2.0 Carb HPE [ex Aus] Grigio Finanza.
2007 Mazda 6 2.3 [current daily, highly recommended]
The past:
1980 2.0 HPE White in South Africa [hope it survives!]
1976 1.6 Coupe Lancia Blu [PFG 76R] [probably deceased]
oh,and an Uno Turbo 1997 also in SA [stolen,never recovered]
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