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News: BetaMeeta20 12th September 2020
http://www.betaboyz.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=4080.0
 
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Author Topic: Fitting new brake lines - access near bulkhead  (Read 668 times)
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capriblu
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« on: March 01, 2020, 07:32:07 PM »

I am just in the process of fitting new flexi hoses all round and given the questionable condition of my hard lines where they fit to the flexis then I am planning to see to these as well.

I have a decent flaring tool, plenty of fresh M10x1.25 fittings, 30M+ of Cu/Ni pipe and have managed to free all lines from the master cylinder.  I havent crawled under the middle of the car yet but it would seem that the pipes for the O/S front have a potentially challenging route to follow along the lower part of the front bulkhead.  Realistically are these changeable with the engine/subframe in situ?  Dont really want to drop subframe but would prefer to change full line length rather than simply splicing fresh section of pipe at caliper end ......

Any advice greatly appreciated,

Thanks,

Andrew

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HFStuart
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« Reply #1 on: March 01, 2020, 07:51:15 PM »

In short yes.

I replaced all the brake lines on mine with everything in situ.
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capriblu
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« Reply #2 on: March 01, 2020, 08:05:51 PM »

OK - many thanks, thats good to know.  Doesn't look much fun though!
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peteracs
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« Reply #3 on: March 02, 2020, 12:34:11 AM »

I can second Stuart, still have the rear pipe to replace, but have done the front ones. Not my most pleasurable job, but certainly possible.

Peter
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capriblu
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« Reply #4 on: March 02, 2020, 12:03:03 PM »

Thanks Peter,

I guess I just need to be a bit braver and just get on with it.  Think I will be a little more motivated to venture into the garage if/as/when this horrible damp, cold and windy weather finally comes to and end.  Roll on spring!
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mangocrazy
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« Reply #5 on: March 02, 2020, 03:26:25 PM »

Yes, scrambling around under the car on cold concrete with wind whistling through all the cracks in the door is never much fun...
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capriblu
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« Reply #6 on: March 02, 2020, 06:03:00 PM »

Yes, scrambling around under the car on cold concrete with wind whistling through all the cracks in the door is never much fun...

 Many thanks for the enouragement!   Cheesy
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HFStuart
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« Reply #7 on: March 02, 2020, 07:13:01 PM »

Yes, scrambling around under the car on cold concrete with wind whistling through all the cracks in the door is never much fun...

Door? Luxury. (To paraphrase the Pythons)
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peteracs
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« Reply #8 on: March 03, 2020, 01:27:35 AM »

Yes, scrambling around under the car on cold concrete with wind whistling through all the cracks in the door is never much fun...

Yes can sympathise, last house had the up and over doors, really drafty. We replaced the current garage up and over doors with roller shutter type. Amazing difference, pretty well draft free. I also use old collapsed cardboard boxes, large ones, and old carpet remnants to keep out the cold of the concrete floor, works well for me. I also bought a small propane space heater which allows the garage to get to a tolerable level in a short time.

Peter
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Paulk
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« Reply #9 on: April 21, 2020, 07:06:13 PM »

Hi Andrew, How did you get on with this, just about to try and replace my front to rear pipe.!?
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capriblu
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« Reply #10 on: April 21, 2020, 08:42:49 PM »

Hi Paul,

I just about managed to form and feed new pipes from the o/s front caliper along the front bulkhead and upto the master cylinder location on n/s. Not pleasant with car just on axle stands rather than a lift but more straightforward than I first anticipated. For obvious reasons n/s front caliper pipes easy.

I have yet to do main front to rear (compensator valve) pipe - given lockdown and recent good weather have been spending spare time on garden but plan to return to garage activity this weekend.

Main challenges I had were releasing the M10 x 1.25 (note NOT M1- x 1.0) pipe fittings at master cylinder and flexi pipes.  In the end found it quicker and easier to cut all pipes and the release fittings with master cylinder on bench away from car.

If you are only wanting to replace single pipe run to rear then you obviously want to avoid the above approach; I would just ensure that you liberally spray penetrating fluid around fitting 24 hours before attempting to undo fitting - go carefully and if possible use a good quality brake pipe wrench to minimise risk of rounding off hex head of fitting. 
« Last Edit: April 21, 2020, 08:55:31 PM by capriblu » Logged

!980 2.0 Coupe - Owned since 1990
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