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Author Topic: Torque value for sump bolts  (Read 418 times)
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mangocrazy
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« on: March 21, 2020, 01:39:58 PM »

I reassembled the sump to the block on my 2 litre engine a few days ago using the supplied hard rubber gasket in the gasket kit. When I was torquing it down I was a little concerned that it was taking too long to reach the torque value I'd set on the torque wrench (10 Nm). I've come back to it today and closely examined it and the rubber gasket has been squeezed out at a number of places and I'm going to re-do the job. The last thing I want is to find the sump leaking once the engine is back in the car.

So; what torque value should I be using, or should i just 'nip it up' by feel? Also, is a rubber gasket the correct one for the job? It's the one supplied in all the gasket sets I've seen, but is there a better option?
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rossocorsa
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« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2020, 01:31:38 PM »

A good modification is to fit studs using studlock then use washers and (if I recall correctly)nylock nuts to ensure security, don't need to be super tight 10 nm might be too high there's no official figure but they are not very big so torque must be low
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mangocrazy
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« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2020, 02:16:58 PM »

Yes, I've fitted studs to all the threads in the block and used nyloc nuts on them, just used bolts for the threads in the bearing housings. I've also untensioned all the nuts/bolts fastening the sump and re-torqued them to a lower value (nip them up, then nip them a bit more - very scientific). Of course the damage may already have been done, but as the engine is still on the stand being re-built I can pull it all apart and re-do it if I decide I need to.
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1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2017 KTM Duke 690R
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
1980 Yamaha RD350LC
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