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Author Topic: Painting Beta engine block  (Read 88 times)
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mangocrazy
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« on: August 12, 2018, 03:04:56 PM »

I've had my bare 2L Spider engine block sat on an engine stand for close to a year now, without getting round to preparing it for paint. The block had been given to Stanwood Engineering in Bawtry on Guy Croft's recommendation and had gone through their ultrasonic tank. When it emerged it looked pretty much brand new. While it was there the block was bored to accept the +0.4mm Vick Auto pistons I had, and the complete bottom end will return to Stanwood in the full ness of time to be reassembled. I'll rebuild the top end myself (probably).

Anyway, first step was to mask off all the areas that don't need or want painting. I must confess, I hadn't realised what a fiddly and time-consuming task it would be. I'd also forgotten that there are 6 sides to an engine block, all of which need treatment. The block is full of machined faces to which components bolt, and these have to be protected. There are also a lot of machined circular recesses that are almost impossible to blank off using masking tape. For those I used thick cardboard, cut slightly oversize and then crimped into place using a small screwdriver.

What you see here took me over a day, and the back of the block has still not been touched. Ho-hum...



The large side closest to camera is the base of the block with all the crankcase webs covered. The side mounted to the engine stand is the clutch/gearbox end. The block had to come off the engine stand to mask that side, as it was impossible to do in situ. More delay...



This gives a better view of the fiddly nature of the masking process. The masking tape I used is cloth-based and can be quite fairly accurately with a sharp Stanley blade.



And this view shows the top deck all masked up, and the copious use of CAD (cardboard-aided design) in blanking off parts that must remain paint-free. Hopefully the next set of photos will show the masking complete and 2K epoxy primer applied.

Sometime this year, would be nice...

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1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
rossocorsa
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« Reply #1 on: August 12, 2018, 11:51:19 PM »

Blimey! I just did mine in grey floor paint with a brush 🤣
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mangocrazy
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« Reply #2 on: August 13, 2018, 09:56:30 AM »

Blimey! I just did mine in grey floor paint with a brush 🤣
I'm starting to appreciate the wisdom of that approach...   Grin
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1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
rossocorsa
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« Reply #3 on: August 14, 2018, 08:10:44 PM »

Blimey! I just did mine in grey floor paint with a brush 🤣
I'm starting to appreciate the wisdom of that approach...   Grin
To be honest I don't think the block gets as hot etc. as you might imagine, so whilst floor paint isn't perfect it's not bad either.
« Last Edit: August 14, 2018, 08:57:34 PM by rossocorsa » Logged
peteracs
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« Reply #4 on: August 14, 2018, 10:57:41 PM »

I may be wrong remembering, but have it in my mind Guy Croft used Hammerite. Suspect I read it in his book.
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Saab 9-3 1.9Tid Cabrio
mangocrazy
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« Reply #5 on: August 14, 2018, 11:54:00 PM »

I may be wrong remembering, but have it in my mind Guy Croft used Hammerite. Suspect I read it in his book.
Yes, he did use Hammerite. I'm sure I've read it in his book, and he told me in person. My thinking was that as I'd got it so thoroughly cleaned I might as well try and get the best possible finish on it I can. The amount of time it's taken me to get this far has made me seriously question the wisdom of that decision.

But it's nearly ready for paint now, so I will persist...  Cheesy
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1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
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