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Author Topic: Sticky drivers door lock.  (Read 2285 times)
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Harpo
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« on: May 14, 2018, 09:59:19 PM »

Mods: this probably is in the wrong section but I thought it has the highest footfall and gives me the best chance of an answer xxx.
Went to open the drivers door and the lock isn’t working as it should. So I can’t get into the car to start the work I have put off for too many years.
The key will turn left about 10 degrees and to the right about 45 degrees. I’m so out of sort with Betas that I can’t remember how far the key should turn. The lock ‘toggle’ inside isn't moving at all. When I pull the handle there is resistance so I think that the key just needs to turn more, but how much?
Can anyone kindly refresh my memory as to how far the key should move?
The car is hard against a wall so I can’t try the pax door. Is there any easy way to break in before I get a local scroat around to do the honours? Mind you, I expect they wouldn’t have a clue other than a brick, since they are all experts now at these new tangled keyless cars. Progress eh?
I expected a few snags changing the timing belt today but I didn’t even get the bonnet opened!
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Neil-yaj396
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1979 1300 Coupe


« Reply #1 on: May 15, 2018, 07:53:30 AM »

The key should turn a bit further left to open the door. Like everything else these things can seize up if left too long. Might be worth a good squirt of WD40 into the lock?
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HFStuart
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« Reply #2 on: May 15, 2018, 10:25:01 AM »

The lock barrel is held in place by two small screws and (IIRC) a slot in the alloy casting. It will wreck the lock but they can be opened with a big screwdriver. Fishing to pull up the button on the door with  a coat hanger or inside the door mechanism might be a better bet
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Harpo
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« Reply #3 on: May 15, 2018, 03:00:18 PM »

To the left? Opps! I’d better not confess to forcing it to the right! Thanks Neil. I did squirt a load of WD40 last night and I’m about to go out and try again.
I did consider bending the door frame a bit Stuart but I didn’t want to create any damage.. Thanks for the info on the door lock. I will have a spare somewhere and I’m hoping the key cylinder can be changed over?
Another idea gleaned from the net is to jack each wheel up in turn and put them onto a tray.. Then slide the car out so I get to the pax door. Actually it was from a forum on how to move a car without damage that is parked outside your driveway blocking your access. Of course if you had a big 4x4 you could just drag it to the next street!
Anyway, off outside now and if it doesn’t open I’m off to McDonald’s to buy 4 Big Macs. One at a time.
Anybody fancy a burger?
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rossocorsa
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« Reply #4 on: May 15, 2018, 09:33:31 PM »

Be careful using WD-40 on locks, a dry ptfe lubricant is better or graphite. The problem with oil is it can attract dirt causing the barrel to stick again and increasing wear.
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Harpo
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« Reply #5 on: May 15, 2018, 10:17:39 PM »

I’m in! No burgers were consumed and the local McD’s have their full inventory of trays still.
Not one metal coat hanger in the house, all plastic or wood. I splashed out the princely sum of £1.50 for a metal flower stem support from Homebase. A swine to bend and then it was too thick to move easily in the narrow door gap.
I found an old plastic pot of something, the contents long since dried out, but the metal handle was much thinner. I couldn’t get the button to pop up as the metal handle would slip off the bottom of the button, however, by using the key at the same time it opened up. I think it was just lack of use as it is working as normal now. So no broken key (I only have one), no smashed window and the bonnet is open so onwards with the timing belt.
Thanks guys.
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