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Author Topic: beta coupe 1979 - 1600 from belgium  (Read 1570 times)
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Orbital
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« Reply #20 on: April 20, 2017, 08:51:27 PM »

that's it not 100% done but getting much closer !

When it came to doing the back like your doing right now I also removed the inside panel makes it easier to seal when you put it back together .. yet again all very ruff at the mooo


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fred2660
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« Reply #21 on: April 21, 2017, 06:39:41 PM »

your car seems even worse  Wink
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fred2660
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« Reply #22 on: April 30, 2017, 07:19:54 PM »

welded some more and started to paint the inside of the car with a rust primer

IMG_2062 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2064 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2067 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2066 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2070 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2068 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2071 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2072 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

still have a lot of welding to do

ordered also a haynes manual

anyone has a suggestion for a good inside sealent(?) for all the joints and to put over the welds, ? thanks

greets
« Last Edit: April 30, 2017, 07:21:52 PM by fred2660 » Logged
fred2660
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« Reply #23 on: May 02, 2017, 07:58:21 PM »

started working on the left door today , a bit of rust but not too scary. more important the electric window is operating just fine. connected it to a battery and it went up and down, and up and down...woohoo!!

IMG_2159 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2161 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2160 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2163 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2162 by frederikleyers, on Flickr
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Orbital
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« Reply #24 on: May 07, 2017, 05:48:30 PM »

Nice work ! Not got to the doors yet on mine  Undecided      .. I would advise using fiberglass or body filler on some of the worlds as you will probs allow water into the car.. that or it will just just again.  Rust primer and paint only does so much   .....
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fred2660
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« Reply #25 on: May 26, 2017, 09:19:20 PM »

little update. welded some more

corner of te hood

IMG_2324 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2323 by frederikleyers, on Flickr


rockers

IMG_2322 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2320 by frederikleyers, on Flickr


dissembeld the back calipers

IMG_2325 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2337 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

got some damage on a screw inside the caliper (dont know the name of the part)

IMG_2345 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

got to find to replace that. also still looking for the back struts (dont wanna buy them new)

greets
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Ricambi Storici
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« Reply #26 on: June 02, 2017, 10:24:42 PM »

Hi there,

if you didnt solve please write me an email at ricambistorici@gmail.com 

I have a couple of Lancia original rear shock absorbers NEW (also front ones).

thanks peter

I ran into the next problem. I removed one of the back struts( ?) and find some...rust

IMG_1943 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_1944 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_1945 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_1946 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_1953 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_1954 by frederikleyers, on Flickr



dont know if i am gonna fix this or search for other (better) ones. its quite a vital part of the car. dont know if i am able to fix it


one of my favourite tools

IMG_1948 by frederikleyers, on Flickr
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fred2660
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« Reply #27 on: June 21, 2017, 05:45:45 PM »

hello there, a little update. I have been working on the car less consistent lately. the welding is getting boring and frustrating, especially the upside down welding;

anyways. I redid the rear left inner fender. the car really starts to look like frankenstein

IMG_2365 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2366 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2367 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2365 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2368 by frederikleyers, on Flickr


I also made a new back panel. the original was too rusted and no longer usable. I am quite satisfied so far by this job. look for yourself

IMG_2352 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2353 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2354 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2355 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

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IMG_2361 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

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IMG_2363 by frederikleyers, on Flickr


after this the welding is almost done (hopefully)

later....
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Orbital
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« Reply #28 on: June 23, 2017, 11:03:42 PM »

Good work.. though I find welding 100000 times better then rubbing down body filer which I can imagine u might be needing some...
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lanciamad
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Marcus Robinson


« Reply #29 on: June 25, 2017, 06:12:01 PM »

Great work, keep it up Smiley
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fred2660
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« Reply #30 on: July 11, 2017, 07:34:16 PM »

Hi

bored with the bodywork I started working on the brakes and suspension. Also new parts are comming in

IMG_2369 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2370 by frederikleyers, on Flickr


still looking for braking discs and the iron rings between the coil and the rubber in the rear suspension.

A lot of grinding and painting going on and today I reassebled a rear caliper. goddamn what a frustrating job. In the end I managed it but not looking forward for doing the other one. It took me more than two hours to find the way to do it, and i hope i did it right  (the posts in the technical pages were helpfull but in the end you have to find your own way)

IMG_2372 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2375 by frederikleyers, on Flickr


the other one, i will make more detailed fotos druing the process

cheers
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fred2660
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« Reply #31 on: July 11, 2017, 09:29:29 PM »

after rebuilding the caliper I keep on questioning myself how the whole mechanism works.  I dont understand how the piston can move up and down (by pressure of oil or air) in the caliper when the bolt in the back of the handbrake is screwed in the piston. the piston doesnt turn, neither does the bolt.

who can explain in easy words?
thanks
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Neil-yaj396
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1979 1300 Coupe


« Reply #32 on: July 12, 2017, 07:00:51 AM »

after rebuilding the caliper I keep on questioning myself how the whole mechanism works.  I dont understand how the piston can move up and down (by pressure of oil or air) in the caliper when the bolt in the back of the handbrake is screwed in the piston. the piston doesnt turn, neither does the bolt.

who can explain in easy words?
thanks

Even a professional brake rebuilding company screwed up re-assembling my rear calipers, so not an easy job unfortunately.
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dougdee123
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« Reply #33 on: July 12, 2017, 10:42:29 AM »

The screw mechanism provides adjustment for the handbrake whilst the pads wear. The problem that is being solved is how to have two systems acting on the same pair of pads to provide retardation when in motion and to secure with the handbrake when stationary. When you assemble the caliper screw the adjuster part all the way in whilst still aligning the components. This acts as a ratchet adjuster. Visualize the cylinder moving toward the pad but the screw insert not being allowed to rotate. the intermediate section will rotate on the thread but not when the handbrake is activated.

The piston  should be fully inside its cylinder when you assemble everything and fit it to the car. When you pump the brakes in for the first time so that the pads are pressed onto the disc the screw thread of the adjuster will unwind and take up most of the travel so that it is near the disk for the use of the handbrake too. When your foot comes off the brake and the pressure in the braking system is off, the pads are free to come off the disc by an infinitesimally small amount allowing it not to bind.

The pads are then close to the disc and activating the handbrake applies a new force to press the pads onto the disc to hold the car. There is a a small tolerance of free movement so that the pads can again move off the disk when the handbrake is released.

I hope this helps.
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fred2660
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« Reply #34 on: July 12, 2017, 07:51:17 PM »

thanks dougdee, ok i'm starting to understand. the inner mechanism of the piston can rotate independatly, so the piston can go up and down whilst the screw does not turn.

I checked it

IMG_2386 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2385 by frederikleyers, on Flickr


thanks for the clarification

Now I had to start on the other caliper and knowing all this I decided to not to disassenble it totaly . I decided to leave the handbrake mechanism intact

IMG_2383 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

I cleaned it but didnt feel like to do the whole operation again. instead I would screw the piston over the screw from the top off the caliper.
I cleaned the inside of the caliper and placed the new o-ring wich i covered with some special grease. This grease makes it easyer for the piston to be pushed in

IMG_2382 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2378 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2387 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

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IMG_2388 by frederikleyers, on Flickr


then I screwed the piston in and placed the new dustcap

IMG_2390 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2391 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

I also put a lot of grease on the lever mechanism and replaced that dustcap also

IMG_2371 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2392 by frederikleyers, on Flickr



Now I can put it away and wait until I can install it.
Any suggestions or remarks, please shoot.

thanks, fred
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peteracs
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« Reply #35 on: July 12, 2017, 08:10:49 PM »

Interesting, just curious why use grease, albeit special type, rather than just use brake fluid to lubricate the bore?

Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
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fred2660
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« Reply #36 on: July 12, 2017, 10:21:24 PM »

Interesting, just curious why use grease, albeit special type, rather than just use brake fluid to lubricate the bore?


Someone told me to do it and i bought it, but dont think it is so important (the tube is almost 10 years old  Cheesy)
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fred2660
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« Reply #37 on: July 29, 2017, 06:38:46 PM »

started to put some sealent on the weldings and corners of the body

IMG_2808 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2809 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2810 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

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IMG_2815 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2816 by frederikleyers, on Flickr


think i am gonna grind it a little bit when its hard to make it a bit smooth. after that a coat of black paint


two guys of a car bodyshop came to look at the car and the weldings. they said i did a good job ( me happy)

greets
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fred2660
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« Reply #38 on: August 09, 2017, 10:37:31 AM »

some of my self made tools and home set-ups.
sometimes they work, sometimes not.  removing the wheelbearing from the rear hub is a real battle

now I am thinking to replace the ARB bushes with the rubber ones or the PU ones. any thoughts?


IMG_2819 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2820 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

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« Last Edit: August 09, 2017, 10:39:02 AM by fred2660 » Logged
fred2660
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« Reply #39 on: August 11, 2017, 01:25:10 PM »

after a couple of days strugling with the vice and hammers and a lot of frustration i decided to buy a cheap hydraulic press. in a couple of minutes the hub was released from the axle and the bearing was out of the hub.  Smiley  It looks like the former owner has 'worked' on this hub already

also bought new wheel bearings of QH, relatively cheap

IMG_2830 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2831 by frederikleyers, on Flickr

IMG_2832 by frederikleyers, on Flickr
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