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Author Topic: beta coupe 1979 - 1600 from belgium  (Read 36218 times)
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fred2660
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« Reply #120 on: July 14, 2020, 09:43:38 PM »

Question, before reinstalling the engine, which parts i should certainly have placed?

Thanks
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Neil-yaj396
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1979 1300 Coupe


« Reply #121 on: July 15, 2020, 07:52:20 AM »

Steering rack; but I think you already have that in....
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fred2660
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« Reply #122 on: July 20, 2020, 08:28:38 PM »

EUREKA, I managed to install the clutch pedal. It was by far the hardest job so far.
There is a pic of all the tools I in one way or the other have used installing the damn thing

I changed the filter in the fueltank. I used a part of classic VW Beetles

I made the gear linkage rod

And replaced the clutch cable which is a bit different from the original one































Next job: placing the engine

grts, fred
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peteracs
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« Reply #123 on: July 20, 2020, 09:26:05 PM »

I like the fuel filter!
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Saab 9-3 1.9Tid Cabrio
Sandro
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« Reply #124 on: July 21, 2020, 10:08:39 AM »

Fred,

You must by now have an intimate knowledge of your car, I respect your perseverance ( thumbs up )

Does anyone know if the gauze filters on the sender unit are essential If you're replacing your external filter regularly ?

I've heard that some piece this to allow a better flow.


Thanks in advance Andrew
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1984 Silver 2000i HPE
1972 Honda cub
HFStuart
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« Reply #125 on: July 21, 2020, 12:08:37 PM »

They're not essential but they do stop the larger bits of crap from getting through - important if you have an electric pump especially if there's no other filter before it.

An in line filter close to the tank that you change regularly will do the same job. When I first recommissioned my car I clogged three of them before it ran clean so I now use the glass type with the removable filters as you can see better.
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Sandro
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« Reply #126 on: July 21, 2020, 01:02:39 PM »

Stuart thank you,

I'll try an inline filter ...Since I recommissioned my beta it's had power drop out problems at certain times. The fuel pump was noisy, so I presumed it was being overworked
( with crud in the tank ) ..both this and the 'missing' disappeared beit briefly when I changed the external fuel filter,

but its back ...at less regular intervals but it's disconcerting, particularly at roundabouts in busy traffic and so on to suddenly lose power. I've bought another filter but it will be much easier to 'see' what's going on with a transparent one. ( and easier to change potentially ) ..I might use both.

It's worth noting that I've also looked at the 'front-end' replacing the battery with a new one and making sure I have good connections etc.

When it's running smooth there's nothing better  ..hopefully I'm not that far off. Smiley

( Apologies members for straying off the original topic )
Andrew.
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1984 Silver 2000i HPE
1972 Honda cub
fred2660
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« Reply #127 on: July 21, 2020, 02:38:46 PM »

I placed the filter because I heve some little stones in the gastank which I couldn't get out. I tried a lot of things but they just wouldnt get out.
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fred2660
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« Reply #128 on: July 21, 2020, 06:27:12 PM »

Engine is back in the car. Went quite easy, must say

After 2 years of living in the garage, I think I know where the idea for the colour came from  Cheesy





































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Sandro
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« Reply #129 on: July 21, 2020, 07:31:27 PM »


ha! that's Great Fred!!

 Grin

It's actually a very nice blue, suits it's age perfectly ..you'll enjoy having it all back in one piece ..nice job, the car looks new.


A.
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1984 Silver 2000i HPE
1972 Honda cub
fred2660
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« Reply #130 on: July 22, 2020, 04:49:19 PM »

I am working on the fuel system.  When i bought the car there was a fuel pressure regulator built in. Fispa Torino.



I am thinking of leaving it out. What would be the benefits for a 1600cc with weber carbs?
Thanks
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Neil-yaj396
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« Reply #131 on: July 23, 2020, 07:40:56 AM »

If you have an electric pump I would keep the regulator - better fuel flow if regulated and convenient for filter changes.
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WestonE
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« Reply #132 on: July 23, 2020, 08:57:16 AM »

Do not leave it out. You need fuel pressure regulated to 3PSI or the carbs will flood due to pressure forcing the float valves open. You should also check the pressure is 3 PSI with a gauge in line before tuning the carbs.

Note 3 Pounds Square Inch NOT 3 BAR!
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fred2660
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« Reply #133 on: July 23, 2020, 03:01:12 PM »

Thanks

I finished  the fuel lines.  I have now an inline filter before the mechanical pump, then the fuel pressure thing after the pump.
I will and shall have clean fuel  Smiley

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fred2660
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« Reply #134 on: July 23, 2020, 03:03:29 PM »

I also placed the distrubutor. Its a electric ignition distributor. There were no numbers on the distributorcap, so I guess you can choose any of the for points as number 4.
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fred2660
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« Reply #135 on: July 27, 2020, 11:25:37 AM »

I am working on the wires and have a problem.

When i connect the battery the starter motor starts working, even with the ignitionkey out of the contact.

From the battery i have a thick green wire to the starter, from the starter it goes to the alternator, from the alternator to the fusebox and from the fusebox to the + pole on the battery. From the alternator there us also a groundwire and in the starter ther is a smal red wire
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peteracs
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« Reply #136 on: July 27, 2020, 12:30:21 PM »

Hi Fred

A bit confusing without photos, but have you checked the connections are as per the wiring diagram as sounds like the solenoid in the starter is being activated, disconnecting the small wire to the starter should stop that whilst you fault find.

Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Saab 9-3 1.9Tid Cabrio
fred2660
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« Reply #137 on: July 27, 2020, 03:11:12 PM »

Thanks peter.

I dusconnected the little red wire from the starter: i keeps starting.
I disconnected the wire going to the alternator: it keeps firing

Now there is only the big wire from + battery to starter. En - battery to ground: the starter keeps running. I am totaly confused. I dont understand it.

When i did the compressiontest with the engine out of the car, I had the + battery to starter, - battery to ground on engine. And a little cable on the starter between 2 points to start it up.
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fred2660
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« Reply #138 on: July 27, 2020, 03:29:57 PM »

I think i found the problem. The + cable on the starter was touching one of the pins ont starter.

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peteracs
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« Reply #139 on: July 27, 2020, 03:59:41 PM »

Glad you found it, had to something simple!

Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Saab 9-3 1.9Tid Cabrio
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