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Author Topic: Clutch life and replacement options  (Read 7257 times)
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smithymc
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« on: December 26, 2015, 12:59:43 PM »

Merry Christmas all!

I think the clutch is getting a bit thin on mine at 25000 miles. Does this seem rational?. I know I have got 180k out of a clutch on my modern, but seem to recall they didn't last too well back in the old days.

Any ideas on a source and will this fit?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LANCIA-FULVIA-BETA-NEW-CLUTCH-KIT-/281478010504?hash=item4189659688:g:7JQAAOSwajVUTBN5

Thanks

Mark
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Neil-yaj396
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1979 1300 Coupe 1983 2000ie Coupe


« Reply #1 on: December 27, 2015, 09:41:50 AM »

Unless the Lime's original owner was a 'clutch rider' there's no way it should be on it's way out at 25K. Have you checked the adjustment? It can be quite sensitive and won't feel right if it is out. I've also heard of clutch plates acquiring a glaze after long lay ups which can make them slip. It wears off eventually I think.

I don't like that ebay add; 'Beta...1969 0n'Huh? Fairly sure that the Beta doesn't share clutch components with the Fulvia?
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peteracs
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« Reply #2 on: December 27, 2015, 10:34:55 AM »

Neil/Mark

Could it be for the Series 1 Beta as that was 1400 and 1600 and possibly different spec?

I will dig out my parts books for the two and compare p/ns

Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
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rossocorsa
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« Reply #3 on: December 27, 2015, 10:38:30 AM »

Some Betas use the same driven plate as fulvia, not sure about the cover but fairly certain the release bearing is different.
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smithymc
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« Reply #4 on: December 27, 2015, 11:32:11 AM »

Thanks chaps. That Fulvia ref made me wonder too.

There's clearly a bit of corrosion I can hear too, probably due to the wet/ mild weather, so may be that I'm worrying prematurely. Might still be an idea to get a decent item and bearing on the shelf though.

Mark
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rossocorsa
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« Reply #5 on: December 27, 2015, 11:59:59 AM »

Release bearings can be slightly difficult the rest should be readily available. Release bearings turn up nos on eBay fairly regularly and its probably the cheapest source plus nos are probably better quality than new that might be Chinese. The 1600 released bearing is smaller than the 2 litre one although whilst not 100% certain they probably both fit
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rossocorsa
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« Reply #6 on: December 27, 2015, 12:11:34 PM »

URL: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=400992523379&alt=web
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smithymc
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« Reply #7 on: December 27, 2015, 01:35:34 PM »

That's a coincidence- same bloke as is selling the clutch kit and it's about a mile across country from our house!

Mark
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thecolonel
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« Reply #8 on: December 30, 2015, 11:33:36 AM »

May be worth opening the release bearing case and checking the actual bearing number, many are the same
I have replaced the internal bearing on
various release bearings when a complete replacement is not available.
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mangocrazy
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« Reply #9 on: January 06, 2016, 10:42:02 AM »

My apologies for dragging this topic slightly off-topic, and please excuse my ignorance as I've never actually done this on a car before (done it on lots of motorbikes...), but when one splits the engine and gearbox to get at the clutch is it necessary or desirable to drain the engine and/or gearbox oil?

I'm guessing the answer is no, as long as the crank and gearbox oil seals are doing their job, but thought it best to ask...
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WestonE
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« Reply #10 on: January 06, 2016, 01:39:30 PM »

Graham

No need to drain oil from either and I suggest reading the steps in the Haynes Beta manual to control the panic/ understand the order and tools required.

Enjoy

Eric
NB both gearbox and engine are heavy and must be properly supported to keep your fingers and toes where they should be.
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mangocrazy
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« Reply #11 on: January 06, 2016, 06:35:41 PM »

Thanks Eric. I was intending to get both engine and gearbox properly supported on wooden blocks (possibly make up a V-block for the gearbox) prior to doing anything. I like my fingers and toes just how they are... Smiley
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1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
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2017 KTM Duke 690R
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
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mangocrazy
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« Reply #12 on: January 30, 2016, 05:17:10 PM »

I've finally got round to making up a dolly to support the gearbox and bell housing, and raised the whole engine/gearbox assembly up on blocks of stout timber under the sump. Then I introduced the dolly under the gearbox/bell housing and wedged that in place with more pieces of timber so the gearbox is supported along most of its length.

I removed the starter motor and solenoid, and then undid the four large bolts holding the engine to the bell housing and started to pry the two apart with judicious use of a crowbar. I've got the engine and bell housing apart to the tune of about 15-20mm, but that's as far as they'll go. There's still movement when I lever on the crowbar but as soon as pressure is released everything returns to its former position.

Have I missed something? The Haynes manual dismisses the whole process in a paragraph or two, as if it's a non-event... The only thing that did occur to me is where the Haynes manual earlier mentions 'Remove the four small bolts which hold the flywheel cover plate in position. It is far easier to remove the cover plate before the engine is removed from the car'. Would this have any bearing on the situation?

Right now I've pretty much given up for the day. The garage I'm working in has no lighting and everything is being done by daylight coming in through the garage door. Or not...
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1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2017 KTM Duke 690R
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
1980 Yamaha RD350LC
rossocorsa
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« Reply #13 on: January 30, 2016, 05:32:18 PM »

Have you undone the gearbox mounting at the rear of subframe near the bulkhead
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mangocrazy
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« Reply #14 on: January 30, 2016, 05:45:36 PM »

The engine/gearbox is sitting on blocks on the garage floor, and is not attached to anything.
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1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2017 KTM Duke 690R
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
1980 Yamaha RD350LC
rossocorsa
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« Reply #15 on: January 30, 2016, 05:50:11 PM »

Not easy that way have you removed the thin metal guard they hinder removal if box is on the floor
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rossocorsa
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« Reply #16 on: January 30, 2016, 05:56:03 PM »

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mangocrazy
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« Reply #17 on: January 30, 2016, 06:27:50 PM »

Ah, OK. Now I understand. That thin metal plate (the bottom one) that's mentioned in the Haynes manual is the one I need to remove. And as you say, It's going to be a right t**t to remove as things stand. Bugger. The top one shouldn't pose too much of a problem, hopefully.

Thanks for the exploded diagram, that makes it much more understandable.
« Last Edit: January 30, 2016, 06:30:12 PM by mangocrazy » Logged

1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2017 KTM Duke 690R
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
1980 Yamaha RD350LC
mangocrazy
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« Reply #18 on: January 30, 2016, 07:03:21 PM »

Cheers, rossocorsa! Just returned from the garage and with those 4 10mm bolts and the plate removed, the engine and belll housing separated effortlessly. My cheap Aldi 10mm ratchet spanner is my new best friend... Smiley
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1980 Lancia Beta Spider 2000 (S2FL)
2002 VW Transporter T4
2017 KTM Duke 690R
2008 Aprilia SL1000 Falco
1992 Ducati 888 SP3
1988 Honda VFR750F
1980 Yamaha RD350LC
WestonE
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« Reply #19 on: January 31, 2016, 10:34:06 AM »

Graham

Make sure you use a clutch alignment tool when you fit your new clutch so the friction plate is centred and do NOT hang the gearbox off the clutch driven plate when you are putting it back together. If you decide the exiting clutch is usable brake cleaner to clean it is wise. beware any cleaners with anti rust in them because it is a lubricant that will stay in the clutch friction material.

Enjoy

Eric
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