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Author Topic: Alternator wanted - I think!  (Read 3172 times)
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Hawk
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« on: July 20, 2013, 03:50:12 PM »

Took the Spyder out for a run today and noticed that the battery 'gauge' on the dash didn't leave the red - normally it sits in the middle unless the car is on idle.

Put a multi on the battery and it was reading just under 12v all through the rev range.  Presume the alternator is shot?  Or could it be something else?

Thanks
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Thotos
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Theo Kyriacou


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« Reply #1 on: July 21, 2013, 02:44:59 PM »

Could just be the carbon brushes or regulator. They are a single piece unit on Bosch alternators (about £20 or less http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bosch-alternator-regulator-motor-MULT-vehicles-1197311028-/360608063148) or two separate units on Magneti Marelli units.
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Theo Kyriacou
droptop
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« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2013, 08:27:17 PM »

Could just be the carbon brushes or regulator. They are a single piece unit on Bosch alternators (about £20 or less http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bosch-alternator-regulator-motor-MULT-vehicles-1197311028-/360608063148) or two separate units on Magneti Marelli units.

If it's a Bosch unit, try tapping the regulator with the end of a screwdriver handle while the car is running and check your voltmeter.
If you get an incresaed reading, then simply replace the regulator/brush gear unit. It might be best to remove the alternator from the car as while the old part will come out easily because the brushes will be worn short, the hew piece will have to be carefully fitted by holding it at an angle to the back plate to allow the brushes to go in first then press it gently against the brush springs and make sure it's properly seated before refitting the mounting screws.
Splash out on a genuine Bosch unit if your local autoelectric shop has one as some of the spurious ones are simply crap.
You could also just replace the brushes if you're handy with a soldering iron but when you de-solder the leads, make sure the springs don't fly into oblivion and ensure you don't allow the solder to run too far along the wires when soldering the new brushes in as this can shorten the amount of travel on the brush.
Also check the condition of the sliprings on the end of the rotor shaft and if they seem grooved where the brushes make contact, it may be time to have the alternator rebuilt unless you feel confident to tackle it yourself.
It's not a difficult operation but if multiple problems exist with it, your heart will be broken before you're through.
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Rust never sleeps
Hawk
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« Reply #3 on: September 04, 2013, 09:33:36 AM »

It turned out I had a spare alternator in a box of bits and just swapped it over.

I will rebuild the old one over the winter
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droptop
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« Reply #4 on: September 05, 2013, 08:23:13 AM »

Excellent! Grin
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