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Author Topic: Spyder restoration - long time coming  (Read 14953 times)
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peteracs
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« Reply #60 on: October 11, 2012, 03:14:40 PM »

Moving on to the front part of the drivers sill the repair here was to both the upper part of the sill next to the A post and the area where the sill meets the inner front wing.


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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
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« Reply #61 on: October 11, 2012, 03:15:36 PM »

+3


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« Reply #62 on: October 11, 2012, 03:16:20 PM »

+2


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« Reply #63 on: October 11, 2012, 03:18:46 PM »

As a slight aside from the main body, here is the repair to the battery box which I guess has suffered from either an accumulation of water or/as well as a leaking battery at some stage.


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« Reply #64 on: October 11, 2012, 03:19:32 PM »

+3


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« Reply #65 on: October 15, 2012, 08:49:48 AM »

Ok, back to the wings. Attached to the rear of the inner front wings is a plate which I guess is designed to catch all the crap thrown up by the wheel. These were as you would imagine in a poor state, so new ones were fabricated and fitted. As we were using fibreglass wings which would 'rub' against these plates, the outer edge has had some rubber 'padding' added to reduce wear on the wings (not shown).


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« Reply #66 on: October 15, 2012, 08:50:21 AM »

+2


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« Reply #67 on: October 15, 2012, 10:30:15 AM »

The original splash guards also had a rubber strip stapled (yes, stapled!) the the outer edge.  I guess to stop friction on the main outer wing but also to form a rudimentary seal against the water coming off the road wheel.  This seal fails dismally and those original splash guards usually rot out at the bottom and expose the front leading edge of the sill to water and you end up with a nice little collection of damp mud/grit where the tinworm lives.

BTW - I recognise those pictures Peter!  Grin
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1981 2000 Coupe S2/FL
1976 1600 Coupe S1

Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you send the wall across the field once youve hit it.
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« Reply #68 on: October 15, 2012, 02:22:25 PM »

The original splash guards also had a rubber strip stapled (yes, stapled!) the the outer edge.  I guess to stop friction on the main outer wing but also to form a rudimentary seal against the water coming off the road wheel.  This seal fails dismally and those original splash guards usually rot out at the bottom and expose the front leading edge of the sill to water and you end up with a nice little collection of damp mud/grit where the tinworm lives.

BTW - I recognise those pictures Peter!  Grin

Matt, yes you asked about them I think some time ago. Will be getting onto the work done on the doors very soon......

Peter
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« Reply #69 on: December 05, 2012, 05:58:11 PM »

Bit of a long wait, but finally have some time to log some more of the work done.

Next up was the front valance. This was not too bad, but had some rusted away parts which were 'rebuilt'. The final picture shows during the spraying.



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« Reply #70 on: December 05, 2012, 06:05:50 PM »

On to the wings. These, as was mentioned before, were fibreglass (cost & availability) and on offering up two issues were apparent.

1) The fit to the valance required the valance to be 'adjusted', there were one or two other small adjustments required to allow a snug fit to the rest of the body, though not too significant.

2) The lower part of the wing near the A post did not fit the profile required at all. I guess that the wing pattern is off either a Coupe or HPE. Either way, it had to be cut and reshaped to allow the lower trim to fit. This was achieved with some ally and rivets. The end result was a pretty good fit, including around the headlights, which although still not as tight as some I have seen, was a big improvement over what we originally had. Photos show the mod and the wings fitted after spraying and the grill & lights fitted. As this was a pre F/L 1600 it had the chromed grill and headlight surrounds. Sadly the original headlight surrounds were broken where the screw fixes and the grill had been painted before. We had a couple of later black headlight surrounds, so cleaned them up and the grill which was a bit of a mess and painted both with 'silver' paint. End result is good in my eyes, but probably not as good as original. One has to compromise on somethings......


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« Reply #71 on: December 05, 2012, 06:06:48 PM »

+3


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« Reply #72 on: December 27, 2016, 11:38:00 AM »

Hi All

Well I thought it was time I resurrected this thread to give an update and to record what has happened to date.....

The original posts look to have been made in 2012, but all of the work up to that point were actually completed by the bodywork and paint guys up to late August 2010 if my memory serves me well.

From that point it was over to me to do the rest and that has lead to a very slow progression which I will try to itemise below. The main problem for me as for many was trying to juggle work and home life with trying to spend time on the car. I have had significant periods where I just gave up on the car to concentrate on earning enough to allow me to finish full time work, which I achieved earlier this year. Work on the car has therefore progressed somewhat more the latter part of this year than for some significant time. As to target dates for completion, who knows, but 2017 is looking sort of do-able if I keep on with it through the winter months.

I will try to dig out any photos I have made over the years, but in truth there are not that many. I will post a few of where we are now which in truth does not look so different albeit with a lot of cleaning and painting having been done.

So on to what I have managed to achieve so far......

Peter
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« Reply #73 on: December 27, 2016, 11:47:53 AM »

One of the things I realised very early on after getting the car back was I should have stripped it down fully when we realised it would take a huge amount of effort and cost to repair the bodywork, lesson learnt for the next project!!

So list of work carried out, bound to miss a few things, but here we go...

Remove petrol tank, cleaned outside (wire brush in drill mainly) and painted with Hammerite and Waxoyl, checked sensor and inside for rust, none obvious inside or much outside, happy camper as hard to replace. Also cleaned and painted the filler petrol pipe and replaced the pipe work in the spill prevention arrangement.

Removed most of the inside that was left including dash etc, leaving steering column and cabling. Cleaned (mainly wire brush) and painted all of the inside with Hammerite.

In general the wires were ok, so just replaced all of the connectors with new and soldered and crimped them to ensure decent connection, amazing how many connectors there are. Also used slip on covers for the connectors. A lot of the sellers just sell the crimp only type with pre fit covers which are no use if you want to solder them.

Cleaned up the front and rear bumpers and painted the none stainless parts, also tidied up the rear number plate lights and have replaced the bulbs with Led ones.

Cleaned the rear lights, both had some tape over part of them. One had cracked lenses, so was unusable. These are the early style ones with the smaller red reflector. Fortunately I organised with Angelo in Oz to swap a newly refurbished one for the cracked one, so now have two almost perfect ones which was a full result as they are really hard to find without cracks.

The boot was cleaned and painted with Hammerite.

The car had the original rubber mats unlike later cars with carpet which is a neat item in my book as has a large Zagato 'Z' mounded into the main one. There were some tears which I have used inner tube repair patches to mend, not sure if this will endure, but better than nothing.

All the wiring in the boot and the most of the main compartment has been wrapped with loom tape, the engine bay will be done with the same when the engine bay is put back together.

The front suspension has been removed, the struts stripped down, but dampers left in. These are the removable type so can be replaced if needed. I spent a while sorting out the bearing at the top of the strut. One of them was shot, the other ok. Sourcing one was a trial, finally finding one with a guy in the US, but he did not have a seal for it, but managed to find one in a box of parts that came from a scrap car I bought, do not look forward to finding any more..... The struts were cleaned and painted as were the springs, they look nice now, no idea how long it will last.

The lower wishbones had the bushes replaced with PU parts which fit a 355 Ferrari, see other thread on this subject. I also replaced the lower ball joint.

I stripped the hubs and replaced the bearings, again an interesting hunt for genuine European parts, the original rings were a weird design with no obvious tool available, so replaced with bearing rings from Mark. I had to get the local garage to press the bearings out and replace with new ones. The CV boots were shot, so sourced new CV joints and boots, but despite getting the correct part number they all tend to be different and so far have only one that fits ok, hopefully I should have a second soon.

The rack had the centre boot all corroded as normal by the heat from the exhaust, so removed it, cleaned and rebuilt with new centre boot and filled with fresh oil. Freed up the track rod adjusters and installed new track rod ends.

Underneath was cleaned with drill with wire brush as good I as could, then painted and Waxoyl'd, very mucky job.

The front subframe was cleaned the best I could and painted in situ, so not the easiest or best way, but at least it has some protection. Same for the main engine bay. In order to do this a lot of parts were removed including the servo and brake master cylinder. This master cylinder was rebuilt with new seals supplied by Lukas, who also supplied the seals for the brake cylinders which one of the current jobs partly finished.

The engine has been degreased as best I could with it in situ. Various parts have been removed, cleaned and if needed painted to help prevent father rust. These include -

Two off water rails, starter motor, alternator, fuel pump, sump, oil pump, cam covers, various brackets.

The front lights were removed and the metal parts all cleaned and painted. I accidentally broke one of the lenses so need to replace it, it was not original, but I may just replace with matching set.

The screen was originally installed after the spraying, however it had to removed as the roof lining needs to be installed before the screen is refitted.

The old rear hood was pretty poor, so sourced one from a US supplier. I went for a canvas style rather than vinyl. I cleaned up and painted the frame and installed the new hood, not too happy with my work, so may have to refit, still have issues with clips not latching ok, but have left for the time being as plenty of other jobs to be getting on with.

The wheel arches have had stone chip applied, but do aim to fit liners from later cars to at least the front to aid in keeping them rot free.....

The wiper mechanism was removed, cleaned and greased. Where they come through the scuttle the bushes were pretty crudded up and would have made the wipers very slow, suspect it is a very common problem.

Think that is all for now..... Hopefully more to follow

« Last Edit: March 04, 2017, 01:54:33 PM by peteracs » Logged

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« Reply #74 on: January 11, 2017, 05:28:57 PM »

Here are a three photos as of today.... Not great quality as taken on iPhone


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« Reply #75 on: January 11, 2017, 07:09:35 PM »

Great to see a wonderful Spyder coming together I wish Mine was at this stage.

Eric
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« Reply #76 on: January 11, 2017, 09:06:12 PM »

Starting to look good!
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« Reply #77 on: January 11, 2017, 10:42:53 PM »

Very nice Peter. That is going to be lovely.

Keep it up.

Mark

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« Reply #78 on: January 12, 2017, 05:20:55 AM »

Wow!!

What a job, but done so well!!
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Simon

13 Golf GTi - 81 DMC12 - 79 Lancia Beta Spyder
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Re:
« Reply #79 on: January 17, 2017, 01:40:56 PM »

Looking good! Let's hope not too far off driving!! Keep up great work!!

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk
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