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Author Topic: Spyder restoration - long time coming  (Read 27183 times)
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peteracs
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« Reply #140 on: September 02, 2020, 04:59:53 PM »

As another aside I took stock of the stainless strips for the edge of the carpet next to the doors and the stainless strips above the sills and at the bottom of the doors. All were in need of a good clean and had a number of scratches. I remembered an old old Wheeler Dealers episode where they were renovating a Frogeye. Mike took the aluminium trim strips to a specialist polisher and the results were amazing. So, decided to look into how to polish stainless and came up with a company who were on Ebay. I gave them a ring and had a sensible conversation ending in buying a kit of three wheels and three polishes. The first is to get the surface scratches out, the next is to start returning to a shine and the final is to give it the normal stainless shine. This arrived promptly and was not expensive at just over 20 delivered. I have started on the carpet strip which was particularly bad with glue, paint and some bitumous adhesive. I first cleaned with Jizer, then rinsed and followed with Cif and finally used a Stanley Blade to remove the stubborn paint overspray. Then set to with the polishing kit. The results are as I had hoped with a nice even shine. Below are a couple of photos, the first is the one of the carpet strips before starting and the other the finished one. Not sure how well they will show the difference in the photos, but in the flesh a great result.


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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Saab 9-3 1.9Tid Cabrio
peteracs
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« Reply #141 on: September 02, 2020, 05:08:21 PM »

The company is Metal Finishing Supplies, Cannock. Here is the kit which also includes a mandrel for a drill (not shown). Their card is included in the photo.


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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Saab 9-3 1.9Tid Cabrio
WestonE
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« Reply #142 on: September 02, 2020, 06:34:10 PM »

Nice Work

I cheated and took bits to Pete the Polisher on West Wycombe Road. He does a lot of work for TV name restorations is very local and fairly cheap. Bumpers are more of a problem. I had to get my 2 front IE types done elsewhere and did not like the cost frankly. It would have taken a LONG time with a grinder mop and a lot of space.

Eric 
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peteracs
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« Reply #143 on: September 02, 2020, 11:28:41 PM »

Hi Eric

It helps that I am effectively retired so have more time than a lot of folk and have no target date for finishing the car. I am also enjoying finding out about these little skills and having a go at them. Some of the things I have done will be a bit on the bodge it side, but hopefully will be a decent result in the end.

Just in the middle of unscrambling the various odd wires for the dash. On this version you get wiring for things which do not exist/future use which is quite amusing as well as a switch which does nothing and has nothing attached to it.... Keeps you on your toes!

Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Saab 9-3 1.9Tid Cabrio
peteracs
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« Reply #144 on: September 03, 2020, 04:09:28 PM »

I have now completed the headlining and fitted the seals around the windscreen, doors, targa roof and rear hood. The headlining took an age as never tried it before, the result is ok, but would not want to have to do many (any?) more of them. I have left the light aperture for after I have tested the electrics as once fitted I do not want to take it out again.....


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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Saab 9-3 1.9Tid Cabrio
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« Reply #145 on: September 03, 2020, 06:26:29 PM »

Hi Peter Impressive work!

I have this to look forward to and I am dreading it frankly. I have the new headlining sections ready to go, but find myself keenly doing everything else first.

Eric
 
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peteracs
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« Reply #146 on: September 03, 2020, 07:33:39 PM »

I can well understand that, I put it off for a while as well. Best of luck and take your time.

Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Saab 9-3 1.9Tid Cabrio
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« Reply #147 on: October 04, 2020, 10:24:48 PM »

Work on the car has been patchy this last month due partly to elderly parents needing to spend time with them, however I have been tackling the rats nest called the wiring loom behind the dash and mods for the lights, more of this in a future post when I have finished it.

The main reason for this post is a small thing, namely the door sill cover plastic ends (photo below). I was short of one pair which Eric kindly sent to me with another pair which are going spare should you need any. As with all of these it appears the plastic shrinks over time and hence they no longer fit the end of the covers by quite a bit. A solution I found which appears to work (time will tell) is to dip them into boiling water to make the plastic soft and stretch them over the sill covers and hold until they are cool again.


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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Saab 9-3 1.9Tid Cabrio
peteracs
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« Reply #148 on: October 10, 2020, 11:37:19 PM »

Almost finished sorting the wiring, apart from changing all the connectors to try to achieve reliable connections (I have soldered each terminal as well as crimping the), I wanted to modify the wiring, again to improve what came as standard.

First up I noticed in the wiring there was a relay for the dipped beam, but not one for the full beam or side lights, which means reasonable current goes through the column switch and is most likely a cause of failure which I think is not uncommon. So I added two relays to the circuits and mounted them on the strut for the steering wheel. This keeps them out the way, but in the main cabin and near the column switches.

Next I decided to run earth wires from the battery to the rear lights, via the earth point on the steering column support strut, to both the earth points just below the front light assemblies. I am hoping this will again improve reliability.

One item which I have been working on and off of for quite a while are the main lights. A simple enough job you may think, but I did make it harder. I had only one set of original lights from this car and they were not original to the car being a set of Hella ones. These are original for to cars like mk3 Capri and BMW 3 series apparently. They are well made and have a metal cap arrangement at the rear which acts as a water tight cover for the bulb. The problem is that this cap has terminals which stick out and mean the whole light assembly protrudes well beyond the plastic cover on the Carello base plated I have. I could have just bought a new set of lights which have simple rubber caps, but decided to try to use the Hella ones as they are well made and sort of period for the car. Below are photos of the original cap arrangement and a modded version. basically I drilled out the rivets holding the terminals and removed the terminals, wires and outer plastic insulator. Then using the inner plastic insulator and some polyeurathane, sealed the holes at the rear. Then I drilled a hole in the side and installed grommet and two wires. I was bit concerned about heat buildup in the cap when the light is on, so went for Silicon coated wire which has much higher temp tolerance than PVC. The end result is that the plastic caps just fit over this a Hella cap, so pretty happy with the result as shown below. The supplier of the wire did not have grey, so went for blue and marked it with grey tape as grey is the colour for the dipped beam.

I still have to finish the main battery cables and fit the battery tray. The bodywork guys ended up welding it in place, rather than bolting it, so I removed it and found a replacement, but the support brackets are damaged and need some TLC to allow the tray to fit and be bolted down.


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« Last Edit: October 10, 2020, 11:42:52 PM by peteracs » Logged

Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Saab 9-3 1.9Tid Cabrio
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