Lancia Beta Forum
December 05, 2024, 08:10:42 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Looking for Lancia Beta parts: www.lanciabetaparts.co.uk
 
   Home   Help Contact Admin Search Calendar Gallery Articles Login Register  
Pages: [1]
  Print  
Author Topic: Anyone changed a Spider hood?  (Read 6995 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Hawk
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

England England

Posts: 448



« on: June 07, 2012, 04:48:01 PM »

I've got a new hood and it looks easy to swap over Smiley

But, I'd like to go into this 'eyes wide open' and understand any potential pitfalls.

Anyone? 
Logged
Bjwhite
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 14


« Reply #1 on: June 09, 2012, 01:54:34 AM »

I've heard (from the Lancisti forums) that they are beyond a pain in the ass to install--even worse than most convertible tops....
Logged
millieman
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 97


« Reply #2 on: June 09, 2012, 09:15:14 AM »

Hi, have done them not too bad if all metalwork is there. Need 2 pairs of hands for shore.
Logged
Hawk
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

England England

Posts: 448



« Reply #3 on: June 11, 2012, 04:00:33 PM »

@ MM

the frame is solid (as best I can tell) - any tricks to fitting?

what glue did you use?
Logged
millieman
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 97


« Reply #4 on: June 11, 2012, 10:03:00 PM »

Trying to recall having been 9 years since i last done one. Screw top of hood to moving part of frame keeping everything equal from centre. Fix frame onto car clipping top shut, then strech down to bootlid, with retaining trim checking you havent pinched too much canopy at top .When happy glue and screw top leaving glue ( upholstery ) to go off.  Was done on a hot day shortening cure time, Approx 1 hr. Then clamp down base and close hood checking taughtness, i used no glue on base and vinyl does stretch abit. Hope this helps and is only my personal experience. 
Logged
Hawk
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

England England

Posts: 448



« Reply #5 on: June 12, 2012, 07:27:47 AM »

Thanks MM

trying to decide whether to do this myself or not as I am travelling down to Le mans (24 hours classic) at the beginning of July.  My current roof has a few small holes but at least it is funtional - which a new one bodged by me may not be Smiley
Logged
mtulloch
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 177



« Reply #6 on: June 13, 2012, 11:36:50 AM »

Where are you staying at Le Mans?
Logged
Hawk
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

England England

Posts: 448



« Reply #7 on: June 13, 2012, 01:27:55 PM »

I stay at a campsite about 10 clicks north of Le Mans.  Lovely place with bar, restaurant, swimming pool and hot showers. 

Been going there for over 10 years now
Logged
speedyK
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 50



« Reply #8 on: September 08, 2012, 07:14:33 PM »

Hi, my hood is fine apart from the corners (seems to be  a weak point).




What I wanted to do is loosen/remove the lower bar to see about cleaning up the rust and then re-attach the hood – though I'm not sure how the lower edge is supposed to be retained – there's only a couple of millimetres overlap with the lower bar...

But, before I look at that, I already have another problem: there doesn't seem to be any access from in the boot. Are the bolts/nuts holding this bar hidden behind the panels behind the rear seats? How do you get access?
« Last Edit: September 08, 2012, 07:23:07 PM by speedyK » Logged
joe1999
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

New Zealand New Zealand

Posts: 45


« Reply #9 on: September 08, 2012, 09:21:27 PM »

This is a fun task? I had to remove the rear seats (bolted through to the boot) remove the parcel shelf  (also accessed through the boot) there will be about 6 or 8 screws along the lip where the rear of the parcel tray normaly sits these need to be removed. Half of mine were rusted and access isn't the easiest (how many times to you hear that line on Beta talk). If you are looking at removing the whole hood you wil need to remove the rear panel cards to get access to the bolts that attach the hinge to the car. Hope this helps!!!!

Joe
Logged
speedyK
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 50



« Reply #10 on: September 08, 2012, 09:39:07 PM »

Thanks for the prompt reply!

Yep, sounds "fun"  Roll Eyes Pretty much what I feared.

And no doubt, after the other rusty ones have finally succumbed to persuasion, the very last one will shear off or have no head and need to be drilled out.

So, if I get the bar off and clean it up, how on earth can the corners be securely fixed if there is only a fraction of an inch of material to tuck under the bar – what adhesive is best for this – PVA or what – anyone know? (Milleman said above that he "used no glue on the base" !???)
Logged
speedyK
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 50



« Reply #11 on: September 11, 2012, 12:05:15 AM »

Does no-one know about getting these edges to stay under the bar? PVA glue or what?
Logged
Hawk
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

England England

Posts: 448



« Reply #12 on: September 11, 2012, 08:50:08 AM »

Does no-one know about getting these edges to stay under the bar? PVA glue or what?

PM me your email address and (if I've still got them) I will scan and email you the fitting instructions I have for the hood.

But as I recall, adhesive is only used on the top bar - the bottom is held in under tension
Logged
speedyK
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 50



« Reply #13 on: September 11, 2012, 12:09:21 PM »

PM sent  Smiley
Logged
Pages: [1]
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
SMFAds for Free Forums
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!