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News: Looking for Lancia Beta parts: www.lanciabetaparts.co.uk
 
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Tony B
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« on: May 02, 2012, 09:34:09 PM »

Hi all,

Just thought I'd say hello and thanks for letting me join. Since I sold my EVO 2 in 95 I've only had chance to mess with my late Father's Thema Turbo which was redeemed with a smashed bottom end from Your. I've since been Lancia free until Monday when I bought my (17 now all toll) 200i.e. Coupe - Yay!! It;s no arriving yet but having been kept in a heated garage since 94, and with 36.000 (it seems genuine) miles, well it's a no brainer.

It's got an interesting Reg. WOI 147, early NI plate I think so if you know anything about this car I'd appreciate a heads up. It's much, much better than I'd anticipated, needs disks, pads and caliper seals all round; and the fuel system draining (had a Y plate some years back and it rotted its tank and clogged the electric pump regularly) but having got it running of sorts on easy start, sounded sweet, quiet and no smoke. Gonna' have to get busy with the wire brush and Waxoyl (do they still do this??) - even the drivers window goes up and down!!

It's been a very long time so once again it's nice to be back in the saddle (soon) and I'll apologise in advance for the stupid questions.

Best regards,

Tony 
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cheeky monkey
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« Reply #1 on: May 02, 2012, 10:13:46 PM »

Welcome Tony !

kept in a heated garage for 18 years.! what luxury!  Sounds fantastic. Has it passed the NI MOT test Ok?

regards
Graham
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Graham

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MattNoVAT
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« Reply #2 on: May 03, 2012, 06:30:55 AM »

Welcome Tony,

We look forward to seeing some pictures and hearing how the recommissioning goes.  Don't be afraid to ask questions, there are plenty of folks on here happy to help out.
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1981 2000 Coupe S2/FL
1976 1600 Coupe S1
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Hawk
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« Reply #3 on: May 03, 2012, 07:32:19 AM »

Sounds like a nice little project you've got there

Given it's been stood that long, have a good look at all of the rubber (hoses, tyres, cam belt etc) before you do any miles - they could well be perished
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Tony B
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« Reply #4 on: May 03, 2012, 10:28:51 PM »

Thanks for the welcome chaps - yeah, pampered motor indeed. I'll get some pictures on ASAP as it's being delivered next Weds. It would seem it had had some recent work because all the flexi hoses looked new or at least recent!! The disks and pads are shot, I'll change the calliper seals. Any tips on where to get discs / pads - ebay?? Got a mate with a tyre business so happy days there.

I think the MOT may not be too far away but I need to drain and then flush the fuel system, change the oil filter and sooner than later (of course) the belt. Tensioner too??. I shudder to recall when I took the tank off the last one, swilled with thinners and then ran thinners through the pump to unclog it - Boom, your dead!!!!! Is it easier to cross the pump relay and maybe run out to a container? Any idea where the relay is??

Lastly (please don't laugh) what's the best fuel set up? Lead adative or will she go on unleaded - sorry but I don't have a clue. Would love a heads up if you could.

Many thanks,

Tony.
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MattNoVAT
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« Reply #5 on: May 04, 2012, 08:11:50 AM »

Tony,

Avoid eBay for disks & pads they are cheap items and often you'll have to wait ages.

As for fuel setup run super unleaded and if you fancy treating the car add some Millers VSP.

When you change the can belt its wise to change the tensioner bearing at the same time.
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1981 2000 Coupe S2/FL
1976 1600 Coupe S1
2007 Ypsilon 1.3 Bi-Colori
WestonE
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« Reply #6 on: May 04, 2012, 10:02:49 AM »

Tony

Welcome. On the brakes get in with the wire brush and PlusGas on the bleed nipples as soon as possible even use a small screw driver around where the screw meets the calliper to clear corrosion. The screws seize in place and are VERY easy to snap off. Also try to remove the black brake fluid from the reservoir with a syringe and clean rag before starting to bleed with fresh fluid in there. The fluid will have soaked up a huge amount of water and often become sticky. Expect to bleed the whole system twice and be aware that the inside of the master cylinder could have rusted beyond the normal seal travel and bleeding can trash the seals on the rust giving master cylinder failure so make sure you check the MC will not allow the pedal to sink under pressure.

Eric
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Tony B
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« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2012, 12:03:47 AM »

Guys, thank you - it's appreciated.
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Tony B
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« Reply #8 on: May 14, 2012, 10:17:16 PM »

Hi Folks,

I'm off doing some shopping for my Beta project and wondered what's the best oil for my i.e.? I'd hoped to use fully synthetic?? Is 10 / 40 near the mark or should I go the semi-synth route?? I'm also struggling to find a supplier of caliper seals so any help would be very much appreciated. Car's here tomorrow but new log book already here! Really can't wait to get stuck in.

Kind regards,

Tony B.
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MattNoVAT
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« Reply #9 on: May 15, 2012, 05:56:21 AM »

Hi Tony,

Hopefully it won't take too much work to have the car fully recommissioned and back on the road.

Re: Oil -  a quality brand of 10 / 40 should do you fine.

Front or rear calliper seals or all four?

I have a set to do all four callipers.  Send me a PM ( Private message) if your interested.
« Last Edit: May 15, 2012, 07:08:18 AM by MattNoVAT » Logged

1981 2000 Coupe S2/FL
1976 1600 Coupe S1
2007 Ypsilon 1.3 Bi-Colori
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