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Author Topic: Beta flasher unit  (Read 1823 times)
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tonylanciabeta
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« on: December 20, 2008, 11:27:18 PM »

From: eggster71  (Original Message)   Sent: 08/09/2008

Hiya, my mum's 79 2l spider failed on indicators/ hazards faulty.

I've looked for the flasher unit under the steering column (RHD) and above the pedal cluster as the haynes manual suggests but cannot find either the indicator or hazard units. It looks as though some bodging's gone on under there and none of the cables on the loom which looks original tie up with the haynes drawing. Does anyone know
a where I should be looking
b what the wiring colours should be
c where to get replacement parts.
Thanks in advance,
eggster





From: hutch6610   Sent: 08/09/2008

You should be looking for a black plastic box - possibly made by Italmec on the right side of the column/pedal box under the dash..
Dimensions are 50mm x 40mm x 30mm approx - with five wires going in.

The same box makes that annoying clicking noise you get when the hand brake is on, assuming it works and you can use this to locate it.

You should be looking on the right side of the column/pedal box under the dash.
I thought i had a spare but its burnt out.
Out of curiosity are the indicators working at all or are they completely dead?
If they flash normally for a few seconds then speed up into a "frenzy" their is a simple fix just let me know.
Good luck.



 

From: betabuoy   Sent: 09/09/2008

Hutch
 
"flash normally for a few seconds then speed up in a frenzy" is exacly what mine do.  I though it was just an earthing problem - can you help?
 
Chris



 

From: hutch6610   Sent: 09/09/2008

OK the fix is quite simple.

So long as all your bulbs are working properly - i bet they are.

First locate the box.
Put the indicators on an search for it from the noise it makes - should not take long if it is bolted in the correct place.

It should be he
ld on with two screws or bolts, just loosen them - no need to completely unscrew - and it should come out with just a twist and a pull.
Next unplug it and take it indoors.
As i said earlier - if its original that is - it should be a black box, look at the bottom and you should have four small screws on the unit.
Remove these and split the flasher unit.
You end up with a circuit board sticking out the bottom.

The next part depends on your ability to solder.
Look on the board and you should find a "reed switch" in close proximity to a coil of some sort depending on who the manufacturer is, but a reed switch none the less.
If you don't know what a "reed" looks like (look at the attached jpg), it is a small glass tube with a wire coming out either side and has a little whisker inside that makes or breaks if it has a magnetic field in close proximity.

What you do is bridge the reed switch - don't remove it - just put a piece of wire across it and bypass it.
If its the common type i have seen you may even get away by just winding the wires either side without soldering, but i would rather you soldered it.
If you have then done what i have instructed correctly it should work no problem without having to modify the wiring to the later type.

You will also notice the hand brake warning wont do the same and speed up after a few seconds driving you nuts.

Later cars after 1980 have a small "ally" can type flasher unit for the hand brake warning light and a three pin unit for the indicators.

Let me know how you get on - especially if you are not familiar with electrical components.

Good luck and keep us posted.

I was going to put this in the "Handy Hints" with photos but typically the unit i have kept aside is burnt out - if i locate another one i will put it on a.s.a.p for any one else.

 

From: betabuoy   Sent: 09/09/2008 20:35
Thanks Hutch.  Why has nobody mentioned that before?  I'm not going to try it yet though.  My Beta and I are routing North Yorkshire to Isle of Skye tomorrow and returning Saturday - wish me luck!  I'll get the soldering iron out next week then if it all goes wrong I can drown my sorrows with a bottle of Talisker.
Chris





From: hutch6610   Sent: 09/09/2008

Because nobody knows about this fix - i hope!

Components go out of tolerance and you know ............. just too tight to go and buy replacement, not that you can now.
Your mum has a Beta as well?
Such D-E-C-A-D-E-N-C-E !
Anyway don't count your chickens yet.

Hope it all goes well for you -the trip and the soldering.





From: Gee   Sent: 15/09/2008 14:28
 i think a few of us will be getting the soldering kit out.! ..
 
By pure chance i got much better indicators leaving the wire (cant remember which colour  right now) for the handbrake warning light disconnected from the flasher unit.   I say 'much better'.. this is 99% of the time.. other 1% of the time the indicators just stay 'on' without flashing.
 
talking of lights, my sidelights occasionaly fail so i think the contact in the column switch assembly is worn. I appreciate this is one whole unit but has anyone successfuly dismantled it to get a look at/repair  these stalk contacts.?
 
cheers





From: hutch6610   Sent: 16/09/2008

You may not believe this but i have never had any problems with the light stalks - snapped the wiper arm of loads of times through carelessness.

Neither have any of my friends who have owned them.
I must be lucky in this respect.
That's why i have never dismantled one but if they are anything like the Alfasud ones then the reason is the plastic melts where the contacts are riveted to the main plastic body.
Check the the fuses in the box - first two from left (looking from the timing belt end) if i remember correctly.
Make sure the contacts are clean and pinch them together to make sure the fuse is a nice tight fit.
I usually take the fuses out and work the contacts with a small rotary wire brush in a Dremel or similar, pinch them and smear some silicone grease or Vaseline on the contacts before replacing the fuses.
You will be surprised how things can brighten up when you do this.





From: A1-6HPE   Sent: 21/09/2008

Hello,
In my experience, the poor contact generates heat which distorts the body of the switch, So making it reliable again means strengthening the body with araldite or such, to reduce the flexing that causes the poor contact.


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