Recent Posts

What do you do with your V5c at the post office? Once it’s safe to go again.

Yes but you might need to fit plugs with lock tight to 2 of the holes left from the VX Inlet manifold studs to prevent water leaks. They are 8 x1.25mm holes

Will the standard  manifolds off a 2.0 carburetted Beta mount on a VX head?
Thanks

still not painted, but we are proceeding...

with this coronathing I have a lot of time so I started working on the car again. It still isn't painted because the transporter didn't want to do it until my steering was fixed, so started working on that

but got a question, i pulled the steering rack apart and there are two covers to bolt on the rack, but the haynes manual only mentions one torque setting. for the coverplate off the pinionhouse (19 NM)

What do you suggest as torque for the cover on top of the plastic retainer and the spring?

Thanks

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rK6WudwtwTMTw3jV9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/7pyqZno1gbhd1p2g9


(my flickr account costs money nowadays so i switched to google photos, but dont know how to put these pictures here directely)

Went for a drive and worked ok'ish once warm. Time for new jets maybe?

Aaaaarrrggghhhhhh, I feel like an idiot  

Turning the idle bypass screw fully in and both low speed jets fully down it runs sort of ok'ish. So still overfuelling then. Needle valve is new, float closing a wee bit earlier than spec for the same fuel density. Pump stops when priming carb is done so no major leak-by. Jets do not look particularly worn but will they overfuel before one can actually see significant wear?

Edit: What made me realise it was still overfuelling was that I found an old can of easystart and spraying directly into the carb immediately killed the engine.

Good strong spark with Pertronix ignition. All the jets look clean with no buildup of old fuel residue. Could you actually see anything on the jets Neil? Will check for leaks at the head to manifold gasket. Did not find any old easystart when looking a few days ago but CRC or WD40 should give an indication at least.

I will just for the sake of experimenting put the float at 6mm. Modern fuels are slightly denser than the old leaded 98 so float will ride higher today.

The Gov.UK site has just clicked over to vehicles built or registered before 1st January 1980 for the exemption. I think that there are plenty of 1979 Betas around? Annoyingly, you have to take your V5c to the Post Office in person. Hardly an essential journey in these current times!

Are your slow running jets clear and in good condition? I had terrible fuelling issues with my Coupe that only really cleared up after driving the car to Italy. They returned last summer, popping, banging and I could only drive at high revs. The slow running jets went in some paint solvent for a couple of days and smooth running returned.

Please check through the High Tension Ignition components before going further. You are looking for corroded connectors on HT leads (check all the ends) plus burnt or corroded contacts in the distributor cap and rotor arm. Also check plug gaps and lead condition i.e. dirty burnt completely rigid.

Then consider low tension connections i.e. are they clean terminals on clean connections.

That should remove most normal ignition issues.
 

You can also spray WD40 or if you are braver easy start to the carb to manifold and manifold to head joint engine running. A change in running will show you have found an air leak.
Are there any open air ports on the carb that should be plugged? 

Float level is important. Use the factory spec.

Use a Colour tune plug to set the idle mixture with the engine HOT unless you own a good gas checker. For FI you would use a wide band Lambder sensor and gauge but Carbs are always a compromise or fuel air mix.   

I hope this helps.