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 1 
 on: April 23, 2019, 03:01:21 PM 
Started by Robert - Last post by Neil-yaj396
They don't sound related. The sensor for the gauge is in the cylinder head on a different circuit.

The fan thermostats are all old stock now and unreliable. I don't like aftermarket kit, but after three thermostats failed on me in three years (luckily two in the 'on' setting) I fitted one of the adjustable ones that takes its reading from the top hose.

 2 
 on: April 23, 2019, 10:05:13 AM 
Started by Robert - Last post by Robert
Hi, I went out for a yesterday and the following happend which I didn't expect to be related.
My temperture gauge was giving no reading at all. However I was not worried because the car was cooling fine before, even too cool.
However after an hour drive when I parked the car, the car overheated. I could hear the coolant in the reservoir but the fan was not on.

Is there a relation between the temperture gauge not working and the fan not going on?
I replaced the fan sensor 6 months ago and since it was working fine.
Also checked if any fuse was blown, but everything looked fine.
I thought it maybe could be the relay that operates the fan, however this wouldn't explain why the temperture gauge was not working.

Best, Robert

 3 
 on: April 22, 2019, 04:01:54 PM 
Started by Neil-yaj396 - Last post by Neil-yaj396
Having driven a 100 miles or so on my Nankangs I have to say I'm happy with how they look and ride. Low speed steering has definitely improved too.

On the servicing front I got 5 litres of Mobil semi synthetic 10w/40 for 24 at Halfords (30% off) which seems great value. Certainly moving on re lubrication......!

 4 
 on: April 21, 2019, 02:26:57 PM 
Started by betasulo - Last post by betasulo
Thanks Gents,

2.0L engine fitted perfectly with the standard carb and K&N filter. I have two very nice DCOE 40s which I would like to fit. Will need to get electronic ignition, intake manifold and the fast road cams.

I would love to hear if anyone has any of the above (cams,intake,and ignition) for sale.

Best regards

Sulo.

 5 
 on: April 20, 2019, 11:22:21 AM 
Started by Berlinettaphil - Last post by rossocorsa
Just time it static for now strobe is really to check everything is working properly and is more accurate. I think this would have to be done as a rough rule of thumb it's not like with points! Remember that 10 degrees at crank isn't 10 degrees at the dizzy I think it's 5 degrees if I'm thinking right Huh?Huh?

I think his difficulty is understanding what the pointers mean?

One mark on pulley is at TDC I'm not sure about the other marks, they are on my VX too but may differ. I know the printed info is confusing.!

 6 
 on: April 20, 2019, 08:41:22 AM 
Started by Berlinettaphil - Last post by Neil-yaj396
Just time it static for now strobe is really to check everything is working properly and is more accurate. I think this would have to be done as a rough rule of thumb it's not like with points! Remember that 10 degrees at crank isn't 10 degrees at the dizzy I think it's 5 degrees if I'm thinking right Huh?Huh?

I think his difficulty is understanding what the pointers mean?

 7 
 on: April 19, 2019, 10:37:07 AM 
Started by Berlinettaphil - Last post by rossocorsa
Just time it static for now strobe is really to check everything is working properly and is more accurate. I think this would have to be done as a rough rule of thumb it's not like with points! Remember that 10 degrees at crank isn't 10 degrees at the dizzy I think it's 5 degrees if I'm thinking right Huh?Huh?

 8 
 on: April 19, 2019, 09:35:02 AM 
Started by Berlinettaphil - Last post by Neil-yaj396
Sorry, can't help with the pointers. My 1300 was timed up 5 years ago statically and I've never needed to mess with it since, other that to check the vacuum advance pipe which occasionally comes off at the distributor end.....

 9 
 on: April 18, 2019, 11:54:33 PM 
Started by Berlinettaphil - Last post by Berlinettaphil
I did want to get the engine running before dropping the front subframe to do the bodywork. At the moment using a timing light is out as it fires while cranking but doesn't run on its own. 1300 guys there are three marks on the crank pulley it appears that the first mark it comes to rotating clockwise is tdc right. I have compression checked it and got 150 ish psi on all 4. Almost every engine I have messed with in the past with fuel/easy start poured down the carb and a bit of a spark you get 5-10 seconds of running but this doesn't. I just feel there isn't a strong enough spark as fuel isn't a problem. I'm getting to the point where I'm thinking of waiting till the engine is out, giving everything a clean and doing a top end strip then firing it up on the test bench. As for accuspark conversion I need someone to sell me a spare dizzy.

I have removed (carefully) the trim from around the screen and it is a bonded version. I have found the heating wire and it found me by penetrating deeply into a finger ouch! I can see how people think it is a seal type as when the trim comes of it looks very uniform. I am pleased with this as I feel it makes replacing easier with any slight imperfections after welding.

Other than the above all is progressing well. And if another person says "your brave" to me I swear I'll go away and buy an mgb.

 10 
 on: April 18, 2019, 09:43:42 AM 
Started by Neil-yaj396 - Last post by Neil-yaj396
The RV has changed to The Generous Pioneer pub on the Burley in Wharfedale bypass; 1215ish

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