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June 28, 2017, 06:40:08 PM *
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 on: Today at 05:24:40 PM 
Started by lanciamad - Last post by lanciamad
Having compiled bits and pieces for my eventually mildly warm engine build, I might be making a start on it soon and will require a valve spring compressor, any recommendations of best design and size required for the beta head?
Thanks, Marcus

 on: Today at 07:55:26 AM 
Started by Paulk - Last post by Paulk
Thanks Mark, I will give it another try.
I have taken out the 5 screws / bolts and I have removed the guide tube at the bottom and the two bolts that connect plates at the bottom of the window.
So everything is completely free but there is a bracket attached to the inside of the skin that is too small to get the winder unit through and out pulling one way and the metal plate won't go through and out the other way.

 on: June 27, 2017, 09:32:47 PM 
Started by Paulk - Last post by smithymc
If you have the 2 bolts (posi-head)out by the handle, 2 more (hex head)on the glass carrier and , I think one more low down , the guide tube is clipped to to the inner skin and just clips out, just ease bravely and cautiously outwards.

Best of luck, I had the stripped gear issue too and even swapped and re-built it's still pretty poor. Not the Betas strong point.


 on: June 27, 2017, 08:29:21 PM 
Started by Paulk - Last post by Paulk
I can't get my manual window winder out of the door. There seems to be a guide bracket near the door handle that it feeds through.
The bracket seems to be permanently fixed to the inner door skin.
The winder just clicks when there is too much force required to raise the glass. I have 'oiled the worm' (oooo Matron!) but I think some cog inside must be worn.

Can anyone help?

btw. Beta Coupe 2000 1981

 on: June 26, 2017, 03:40:44 PM 
Started by psi101 - Last post by arguti
was looking for same and found this but no idea if the right one!

 on: June 26, 2017, 01:06:36 AM 
Started by SIMid - Last post by SIMid
Bloody hell! I hope I don't go down this route.

My mechanic doesn't even like working on Italian cars and was hard enough to get him to put in a new clutch!! If this is my issue, then I guess it won't be fixed for quite a while then.

 on: June 25, 2017, 08:45:33 PM 
Started by Whitbut - Last post by rossocorsa
If you just want to repack the grease you just need to remove the small pressed steel inspection plate that's all.

 on: June 25, 2017, 08:40:22 PM 
Started by Whitbut - Last post by Whitbut
Cheers for the response bud I'll have a look at the rear bearings!

 on: June 25, 2017, 08:17:51 PM 
Started by Whitbut - Last post by rossocorsa
I don't remember tbh but I'm fairly sure it's not normal grease I seem to recall it's red in colour. It's fairly easy to remove the back covers and the blower casing leaving the rotors still connected to the front section should you wish to replace the rear bearings and seals and/or clean the interior. Removing the front sections of course not for the inexperienced, (such as me I left mine well alone!) as the rotors go out of phase if removed from the front bearings/gears.

 on: June 25, 2017, 08:11:35 PM 
Started by Whitbut - Last post by Whitbut
After reading another post I will be definitely repacking the end bearings! What is the best stuff to repack it with? Just normal bearing greece? Fingers crossed it is still OK!

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