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January 19, 2020, 04:33:19 PM *
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 1 
 on: Today at 01:14:06 PM 
Started by Nigel - Last post by mangocrazy
Interesting - so not quite as cut and dried as I first thought. I think for my usage, with the car living in the south of France, an in-head thermostat (but the standard one, not a hot climate one) and with the bypass from cyl 4 to the top rail added would probably be the best solution. If needed, then it would be a simple matter to replace the standard stat with a hot climate one.

For large parts of the year in the S of F, 'warm-up' isn't normally a problem...

 2 
 on: Today at 01:03:35 PM 
Started by Nigel - Last post by rossocorsa
Nice work, and a very neat installation, but how does it improve on the in-head thermostat arrangement?

I think GC is adamant that the in head stat is best it just doesn't offer as good warm up as the standard stat plus I realised that on the late cars the extra pipe to relieve head pressure means that the in head stat is partially bypassed. Can't do anything about that as the top pipe had already been modified wth the lower exit cut off

 3 
 on: Today at 11:26:36 AM 
Started by Nigel - Last post by WestonE
Hi Nigel

An interesting solution. What was the temperature range on the CBS thermostat? Could you not get new hose solutions from CBS given the effort of strip and re-fit?

Well done

Eric

 4 
 on: January 18, 2020, 11:43:16 PM 
Started by Nigel - Last post by mangocrazy
Nice work, and a very neat installation, but how does it improve on the in-head thermostat arrangement?

 5 
 on: January 18, 2020, 10:29:10 PM 
Started by Nigel - Last post by rossocorsa
Could you not get the original one?

 6 
 on: January 18, 2020, 07:23:03 PM 
Started by Nigel - Last post by Nigel
I found a Gates inline bypass thermostat from Car Builders Solutions which was preferable to the inhead option. All 3 outlets are 32mm,so somewhat in between the original fitment.
I made up a right-angle solid piece reducer using 28/35 copper plumber fittings,including a hose rib at each end.
I had to source some random hoses from a local breakers.
The end result should work fine.

 7 
 on: January 18, 2020, 12:15:15 AM 
Started by mangocrazy - Last post by mangocrazy
Can't imagine they get lost all that often, I would probably have one of you hadn't found one on eBay
No, guess not. It was simply me not being organised enough when stripping the engine. And paying the price for my lack of thought.

I'm also in the middle of stripping a motorcycle engine at present (a Yamaha RD350LC), and I've been religiously bagging items in resealable freezer bags of various sizes as I dismantle various sections of the engine. It does help that bike engines and components are much smaller than car engines, of course. A complete bike (wet) clutch will comfortably fit inside a medium size freezer bag. But bagging parts up as you go does seem to be a good idea to me.

 8 
 on: January 17, 2020, 08:50:09 PM 
Started by mangocrazy - Last post by rossocorsa
Can't imagine they get lost all that often, I would probably have one of you hadn't found one on eBay

 9 
 on: January 17, 2020, 04:20:56 PM 
Started by mangocrazy - Last post by mangocrazy
Scratch the DIY suggestion. It wouldn't be the easiest part to try and copy. It's made from 4mm sheet steel and has two x 6.5mm and two x 7mm holes drilled in it. And the inner dimension of the U-section that locates in the auxiliary shaft is 37mm at its widest point. It appears to be untreated steel with no coating, so I'll probably get it plated with some other parts before fitting.

 10 
 on: January 16, 2020, 09:49:15 PM 
Started by mangocrazy - Last post by HFStuart
An the oscar for the most blatant use of a blonde wig goes to...

Anorak notes - Long stalk mirrors fitted to early S2 Spider  - they always look wrong even if they were original.

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